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1991 Nissan 180sx 5 Speed Manual

120,000 kms on the clock.

ENGINE:

Motor was rebuilt about 12,000kms ago

IHI High Flowed Dual Ball Bearing Turbo with HKS Actuator

Nismo 550cc Injectors

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Blitz Front Mount Intercooler

(The FMIC piping is set up to run two blow off valves at the same time. These will come with the car but are not on the car at the moment. Both bovs are Turbo XS items, one is atmospheric venting and the other is a plump back)

Remapped ECU by Nerve

HKS 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket

Reground Cams

Rocker Arm Stopper Kit

Blitz Oil Cooler

GTR Fuel Pump

GFB Boost COntroller

GFB Alloy Crank Pulley

Yashio Factory Raditor

Apexi Pod Filter

HKS Low Mount Manifold

Full 3inch Mandrel Bent Exhaust System

HKS Dump Pipe

Custom Front Pipe

Twin Jun B.L. Cannons with Drifted Out Tips

TINY Dry Cell Battery

EXTERIOR:

Full Respray In Cranberry Red with Purple/Wine Pearl. (There is a bit of gold flake in there as well)

Roof and Bonnet have been sparyed in black with the same pearl.

GP Sports Front Bar

Nismo Side Skirts

Vertex Rear Bar (Damaged)

Ganadore Mirrors

30mm Nismo Flared Metal Front Guards

30mm Blister Fibreglass Widebody rear quarters.

The body line, boot holes, antenna hole, rear wiper hole and rear windscreen jet hole have all been shaved

Vented Fibreglass Bonnet with Bonnet Pins.

Clear VT Indicators

Also I have a pair of Type X Lights that i'll throw in (These are not on the car at the moment).

INTERIOR:

Momo 330mm Steering Wheel

Drift Handbrake Button

HKS Boost Gauge with A-Pillar Mount

Omori Water Temp Gauge

Glove Box retrimmed in Red

Driver's Leg Pads

Tomei Short Shifter

Pivot Sleepy Eye Controller

Central20 280kph Speedo

Fire Extinguisher Mounted In Passenger Footwell

Metal Gear Knob

Turbo Timer

Immobilizer

Push Button Start

Kenwood Double Din Head Unit

Carrozzeria 6.5inch 2-way Splits discreetly mounted in doors

Pioneer 4x6inch 2-way Splits in the rear

SUSPENSION/DRIVELINE

Heavy Duty Kevlar Clutch

Cusco Mechanical 2-Way 4:3:1 LSD

GTR 5 Stud & Brake Conversion (4 Pot Front, 2 Pot Rear)

GTR Brake Master Cylinder (No ABS)

Power Enterprise Ferrodo Racing Pads (Front)

EBC Pads (Rear)

Braided Brake Lines

Whiteline Swaybars Front and Rear

Tein Castor Rods

Adjustable Rear Upper Arms

Adjustable Rear Toe Arms

S14 Steering Rack

S14 Lower Front Arms

HKS Hiper D Coil Overs in the Front with HKS Camber Tops

JIC Coilovers in the Rear

Drift Pineapples

Tomei 3-Point Front Strut Brace

Cusco Rear Strut Brace

Mods wise I think that's about it but I may have forgotten a few things.

The car is making just under 190rwkw. This is due to the ridiculously pathetic excuse for a fuel map that Nerve came up with. Nigel from Ice Performance is confident that with a Power FC and a new map the car could make around the 210-215rwkw mark. If you were really keen you could even just get Dr Drift to re-map the current ECU ($300-$400 I think).

Reason for Sale: The car is quite conspicuous and consequently attracts a lot of cop attention which in turn leads to defects. I am in the midst of clearing one now and I just don't have the energy/time/money to keep dealing with them.

Reg: Yes, Until August 2006 (Currently Suspended, i left a defect on for longer than 30 days)

RWC: Negotiable

Other things to note: The 4th gear syncro is gone

HUGE PRICE DROP: $15,000 neg. NO TRADES

-Minus Bonnet = -$400

-Minus 5-Stud/Brake Kit = -$600

-Minus Cooler = -$350

-Minus Diff = -$450

So $13,200 without the above parts... BARGAIN

The car is great fun to drive and I will be very sad to see it go.

Also, I have a whole heap of spare parts that will be sold with the car.

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Edited by Syxti9
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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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