Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

( edited cos i was wrong :) )

ball bearing turbos are reported to have better spool times, but might require a oil restrictor to limit the turbos oil flow.

same life span for each if oil and cooling is maintained.

Edited by Craved

Standard turbo on RB20/25 is ball bearing and water cooled

(so they have oil flow restrictor standard)

GCG Ball Bearing High Flow is $1750 (PM me for details)

Plain bearing high flow is around $1300, no water cooling, the oil does both the cooling and the lubricating

Ball bearing turbos give faster spooling and longer service life, plus transmit less heat into the oil.

Personally I would never use a plain bearing turbo on any of my engines, the maintenance factor alone makes it a simple choice.

:) cheers :yes:

Edited by Sydneykid

Guy i use, Turbologic in Wollongong does water cooled bush bearing unit for $1350, have used it on several customer cars with good results. The GCG ballbearing unit also looks very good also but with a little more expence. If money is no problem, Sydeny Kid is right, go the (BB).

Edited by Bezerkly

is there much power difference between the BB and plain?

If you didn't plan on doing much track work, like maybe once or twice a year, but wanted a quickish street car would a plain be suitbale?

My car for instance hasn't been on the track once while I've had it. Most of it's driving is in the below 4500rpm range with the occasional squirt up to 100 in second.

Would the BB really benefit me much seeings any turbo is going to have a pretty easy life with me?

Cheers,

James

is there much power difference between the BB and plain?

If you didn't plan on doing much track work, like maybe once or twice a year, but wanted a quickish street car would a plain be suitbale?

My car for instance hasn't been on the track once while I've had it. Most of it's driving is in the below 4500rpm range with the occasional squirt up to 100 in second.

Would the BB really benefit me much seeings any turbo is going to have a pretty easy life with me?

Cheers,

James

Hi James, max power probably not much different, average power quite a bit different, based on my experience. The standard turbo is ball bearing and water cooled, Nissan thought it necessary to specify it that way. They could have saved millions by specifying a plain bearing turbo, so they obviously thought it was a good idea.

Turbos never have an “easy life”, they are cooked by 750 degree exhaust at one end, have ambient air ingested at the other end and get 79 psi of oil pressure squirted into them, hot or cold. I would never consider that their life is in any way easy.

:sweat: cheers :(

ok, compared to someone who tracks thier car a lot mine would have an easy life :sweat:

Thanks for the reply though. It would probably be worth saving for the BB due to the average power gains. Average power is more important to me definately due to the driving I do. The more power I can get down low the better :(

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...