Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

Yes its normal for the take up to be very short . You can ajust the rod length inside the car to vary the pick up point.

You can install a bigger slave ( Nismo have one ) so your clutch pedal will be lighter and the take up will feel better too but its never going to feel like a stock clutch.

Its easy to find and ajust . The shaft is attached to the pedal and you have to unlock ( undo) the 12 mm nut then turn the shaft clockwise ( as you are looking at it ) to shorten the shaft , that will bring the take up point lower to the floor . All you need is 2 spanners, a 12 mm open ender and maybe a 7 mm ( i cant remember this for sure ) .Dont forget a few turns will make a lot of difference.

I'm sure its been covered before do a search and you will find a pic somewhere, if you have any problems let me know and i'll take a pic for you .

If a workshop put the clutch in for you take it back to them and tell them to ajust the pedal for you .

  • 2 months later...
thanks heaps for this, wrxhoon. my twin plate clutch comes on real sudden so your post will really help me out. cheers.

Use a bigger slave, the slave will travel less when pushing the clutch pedal so it will feel like your take up is not as sudden and as a bonus you will have a lighter pedal but dont expect it to be like a stock clutch ..

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

Nismo will fit , you can buy it in Japan for about 13,000 yen from memory but you can probably get one from Nissan here .

Edited by wrxhoon

oh ta wrxhoon, that's great. i'll check on it tomorrow.

yes mumbo i'm talking about the friction point - but the other thing is that there's no gradient of pressure, so at one point there's nothing and the next centimetre it's on full. i also have no experience using it! :)

Are you talking about the friction point of the clutch? my os giken twin is around half way but i'd say its been worn a bit..

If you go to post 6, you can see how you can adjust the take up point .

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose ;)

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose :O

Cool, maybe mines still bedding in, wasn't in long before i blew up my gearbox, one too many hard hitting shifts, so looks like there's hope for me yet :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...