Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

** SOLD **

*Re-Listed*

:P

This R32 is a limited edition V Selection II, which came with some upgraded options in celebration of ‘Nissan Group A’ race victories with the Skyline GTR. The car has no major mods, except a set of shiny stainless steel extractors, an exhaust system, audio gear, custom paint & body kit. It's my daily driver so I wanted something simple and reliable to get me around in & not attract attention.

The audio gear: Alpine splits in the front, Pioneer rear speakers, Nakamichi 1000Wrms 12" sub & Rockford Fosgate amp. The sub & amp are in a custom box made to fit the R32 boot & still be removable for extra space. Audio gear alone (excl. headunit) is worth $2.5k. The car has a black-wired Viper alarm with 3-point immobiliser. The alarm & audio gear will be incl. in the car, except the head unit.

The paint was done in Dec 2005 with 3 layers of clear for extra shine. The paint cost me $4.2k. The car has a full Vertex kit, which cost me $1k. Adding all that up, the car is actually worth over $15k (plus the major service I will do this week).

The car was bought from Kansai in Japan (got all receipts) with about 50,000km on it in 2002, service history and logs to back it up. The speedo now reads just over 114,000km. The car's not a 15-year-old import and as a result had to meet tough rules when it was imported, so I feel it's a better quality car than the cheaper ones. Also the car's not common & is no longer eligible for import. It’s a great daily driver & is very good on fuel; I usually get about 500km a tank.

Now QLD is following NSW & VIC with new laws that will stop under 25’s from purchasing a powerful vehicle. That makes this non-turbo R32 perfect for the youngster that wants the style & character of a Skyline & to have it all legally.

The car goes in for the major service this week. The timing belt, all the bushes & all fluids will be replaced, costing me $1k. She is in truly awesome condition; you will not find better.

Price is a very reasonable $11,000 firm. Thank you!

Thanks,

Samanatha.

[email protected] or PM.

Pictures added. As you can see she's so clean and straight, not a ding or scratch on her (touch-wood)..

post-9001-1143863222.jpg

post-9001-1143864122.jpg

post-9001-1143864146.jpg

post-9001-1143864177.jpg

post-9001-1143864196.jpg

post-9001-1143864220.jpg

post-9001-1143864331.jpg

post-9001-1144478840.jpg

post-9001-1144478850.jpg

post-9001-1144478859.jpg

post-9001-1144478869.jpg

post-9001-1144478877.jpg

post-9001-1144478887.jpg

post-9001-1144478895.jpg

post-9001-1156063036.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111923-late-1992-r32-gts-non-turbo-manual/
Share on other sites

That's very very nice.. wish something like that was for sale when I was looking around :thumbsup:

But, it's worth more than 11.1k.. put it up to 12ish Because once you get hassled down you'll be in the 10.6ish k range.

Edited by ignuz
  • 3 months later...

sorry to go offtopic but whered you get that info? i read about that in the paper today but it didn't give any definite figures on power restrictions or whatever. if its anything like the recent NSW P plater changes it won't effect people who got their liscence before the date the laws are introduced. hopefully :thumbsup:.

and nice 32. cleanest example of a GTS i've seen. :dry:

Edited by hobbsy
sorry to go offtopic but whered you get that info? i read about that in the paper today but it didn't give any definite figures on power restrictions or whatever. if its anything like the recent NSW P plater changes it won't effect people who got their liscence before the date the laws are introduced. hopefully :no:.

and nice 32. cleanest example of a GTS i've seen. :P

In the paper today, yea they didn't give any figures but under 25's wont be able to purchase a powerful car :) sux huh.. Not sure about who it'l affect in terms of when they got their licence. .

And thanks ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...