Steering And Suspension Mods For Dr30

[DR30RULES]

Hey, has anyone used these http://www.k-mac.com/imwinds/asmbly.htm to rear control arm adjustment.

Would like to know how they perform on the road.

Has anyone done the rack and pinion converion yet?? If so how did it go? problems?, comments?

Cheers

[DR JOSH]

I've done rack and pinion conversion, I haven't driven it as yet but it's a lot of stuffing around and 1 big head case all up. It really depends on how seriously you like your R30 if it's worth it or not.

[DR30RULES]

I've done rack and pinion conversion, I haven't driven it as yet but it's a lot of stuffing around and 1 big head case all up. It really depends on how seriously you like your R30 if it's worth it or not.

I really like my DR30 & MR30, so if it can be done I want to do it. What has made the whole thing so difficult? Is it one thing in particular or is the whole thing just a bastard from start to finish.

did you end up using the bluebird cross member and S13 control arms and did they need to be modified extensively to make the whole system work/fit?

Have you done the whole thing yourself or did you get a workshop to do it?

Cheers

[Ghostrider]

I've done rack and pinion conversion, I haven't driven it as yet but it's a lot of stuffing around and 1 big head case all up. It really depends on how seriously you like your R30 if it's worth it or not.

This conversion interests me too!

Any info would be nice.

I have been looking at using the R31 cross member, as it carries the rack mounts with it. Mounting points are different, but the chassis rails are the same spacings, or near enough.

I'm looking at the conversion when I swap motors.

Then I'm gunna have a few spare, no longer needed power steering boxes up for grabs.

Cheers,

D

[DR JOSH]

I've done all of the work my self. I'll borrow a camera off of my brother and get some photo's of how I went about doing it, as it will show it a lot better.

[Ghostrider]

I've done all of the work my self. I'll borrow a camera off of my brother and get some photo's of how I went about doing it, as it will show it a lot better.

What crossmember did you use?

Bluebird or R31?

[discopotato03]

Yes I would be interested to see them too . I have driven an MR30 with the Bluebird manual rack which was heavy though it did have shortened steering arms . If you were lucky and had the Bluebird pwr rack and matching cross member it would be nicer . Bluebird lower control arms are shorter than R30 so you may need to use them as well - unfortunatly then the caster rods no longer fit . The one I drove had its lower arms cut and shut (Bluebird inner to suit the crossmember and R30 outer to suit the caster rods and strut foot ) . The critical thing is to match the racks inner joints to the inner pivots on the cross member width wise . Otherwise it'll bump steer - badly .

Cheers A .

[Ghostrider]

Hey, has anyone used these http://www.k-mac.com/imwinds/asmbly.htm to rear control arm adjustment.

Would like to know how they perform on the road.

Has anyone done the rack and pinion converion yet?? If so how did it go? problems?, comments?

Cheers

Would they be necessary???????????

I have just re sprung my coil overs and the rear is down at least 50mm from standard, yet to the eye, I might have only 1.5 degrees negative camber ABSOLUTE MAX, so I can't see any merit.

Like the R30 rear trailing arms don't go like 1600's & 180B's when they get lowered.

Cheers,

D

[stagefumer11]

Would they be necessary???????????

I have just re sprung my coil overs and the rear is down at least 50mm from standard, yet to the eye, I might have only 1.5 degrees negative camber ABSOLUTE MAX, so I can't see any merit.

Like the R30 rear trailing arms don't go like 1600's & 180B's when they get lowered.

Cheers,

D

got any pics of your current setup ? id love to see how your doing things. I have the power side sorted on my hr30 for now. (untill a l28et is done) but my suspention isnt up to the task atm.

Dam lowerd springs and shocks dont work to well these days

[Ghostrider]

got any pics of your current setup ? id love to see how your doing things. I have the power side sorted on my hr30 for now. (untill a l28et is done) but my suspention isnt up to the task atm.

Dam lowerd springs and shocks dont work to well these days

I'll do some up when I get the front down after Easter, but IMHO I think a lot of my camber issues have been beaten by the use of POLYURETHANE in the rear cross member mounts and moustache bar mount.

I had them custom made by Noltec here in Thornley NSW Australia for about $450.00. That covered Crossmember bushes, moustache bar bushes, 2 x sets of o/size rear sway bar mount bushes to fit in the stock mounts.

A/mkt rear sway bars are an issue as best I see them, because the rear cross member on an R30 is tapered to the outside. The sway bar sits flat, horizontal as it were and any a/mkt universal mount is trying to twist the bar, not allow it to mount as designed. Hence my having them custom made.

The experiment went with a fairly big dia, but I'm going to get some smaller dia's made up for handling tweaks, once it's rolling and registered again.

Cheers,

D

[discopotato03]

I'm all ears Dennis about larger than std rear anti roll bars - wacha got ?

You'll hate the easy solution to the rear X member bush problem . Simply remove the member and glue up the air gaps in the std bushes with Stickerflex (sp?) . You need to do it in 2 or 3 stages to get it to set properly - on each side ie right side up then upside down . You end up with a solid rubber bush with about works type consistency which means some but VERY limited compliance . We also cut out some rubber discs from rally car mud flap material to put between the body mounts to prevent vertical movement of the x member . Worked really well . Had to use nolathane bushes in the rear diff mount because it was a custom for a Bluebird with DR30 IRS . I was going to do this to my spare DR30 diff mount but lost interest . The bum of the Bluebird was much better behaved than my DR30 is now .

Don't hate me Dennis - I'm sure I've posted the Stickerflex "works" bush upgrade on this board before . Ask Jacko and Stu about this "fix" .

Cheers A .

[Matty T]

We also cut out some rubber discs from rally car mud flap material to put between the body mounts to prevent vertical movement of the x member . Worked really well.

Here's some pics of my rear end (Ooh err!)

The crossmember:

The moustache bar:

[Ghostrider]

I'm all ears Dennis about larger than std rear anti roll bars - wacha got ?

Cheers A .

A,

How does 24mm grab you??? And it's bent the same as Jenesis does their's, straight across the back without the zig zag. All I see the zig zag is for is to make handbrake cable adjustment easier.

As you can see in the pics, my polyurethane bushes do just about the same as your sickaflex, but with lots more finess. lol

Working on the theory of the front being about a third heavier than the rear, I have 300lb/in front springs & 220lb/in rear.

As I said before, 24mm rear sway bar and a 27mm front.

In my project I have gone wityh the advice of the guru rally guys and have a mix of both polyurethane and rubber. All the compression points are polyurethane and pivot points are all rubber. Reason, polyurethane greased bushes elongate under load and therefore dirt & grut gets in and makes the inner hole, far bigger than intended as original. IF you are in a position to change all the pivoting bushes on a regular basis, go use polyurethane, but if your like most of us and would rather drive the cars as opposed to work on it constantly, stay with rubber in these areas.

For Stagefumer, I have included a couple of pics showing my gestimated rear camber. When I get it all done I will know for sure when it goes on the aligner, but it looks ok to me.

Cheers,

D

[Ghostrider]

Dam lowerd springs and shocks dont work to well these days

It has been well documented on these pages that lowering R30's isn't easy, but the rear can be simplified by using R31 shocks, as they are about 20mm shorter than stock R30, hence the loss of piston travel isn't as dramatic.

I notice in your specs you are considering SOLID mounting the rear cross member.

I would think long & hard about what you want your car for, as I have ridden in a solid mounted rear R30 and it's not pleasant. All the time you have every little vibration and related noises coming through the body.

Try sourcing the polyurethane that I had made, surely there must be somewhere in NZ.

If not drop me a line and I'll help you get them from Noltec.

Cheers,

D

[stagefumer11]

Dam lowerd springs and shocks dont work to well these days

It has been well documented on these pages that lowering R30's isn't easy, but the rear can be simplified by using R31 shocks, as they are about 20mm shorter than stock R30, hence the loss of piston travel isn't as dramatic.

I notice in your specs you are considering SOLID mounting the rear cross member.

I would think long & hard about what you want your car for, as I have ridden in a solid mounted rear R30 and it's not pleasant. All the time you have every little vibration and related noises coming through the body.

Try sourcing the polyurethane that I had made, surely there must be somewhere in NZ.

If not drop me a line and I'll help you get them from Noltec.

Cheers,

D

I was thinking about getting it soild mounted but from what you recomend, maybe i wont. haha.

Atm i am using r31 rears with lowerd cobra springs. Pitty they are untraped . im really finding the rear end to soft. The rear end walks around to much..

Ive been working at repco for nearly three years and its not easy getting any bushes for the old girl. . It could be because we are here in NZ.

[Ghostrider]

I was thinking about getting it soild mounted but from what you recomend, maybe i wont. haha.

Atm i am using r31 rears with lowerd cobra springs. Pitty they are untraped . im really finding the rear end to soft. The rear end walks around to much..

Ive been working at repco for nearly three years and its not easy getting any bushes for the old girl. . It could be because we are here in NZ.

Do you know the specs of the Cobra Springs?

If the Cobra brand is anything like the off the shelf Pedder's, Lovell's, Jumboz, King's, K-Mac and many more, lowered springs, they would be about 30mm lowered and probably about 150lb/in

These spring makers work on an increase of about 30% over standard and have just about zero relevance to good handling. Nissan and all other car manufacturers build cars to carry passengers and luggage in the boot, their spring rates are always heavier at the back than the front for this (luggage) reason and therefore are the opposite requirement to good handling, as a RWD car should have the front harder/stiffer than the rear and FWD the opposite way round.

I have a set of custom 40mm lowered 200lb/in Jumboz made rear springs I took out of my original MR30 Hatch project car, IF your interested. But they would have to be matched with a set of fronts around 260lb/in.

Cheers,

D

[stagefumer11]

Do you know the specs of the Cobra Springs?

If the Cobra brand is anything like the off the shelf Pedder's, Lovell's, Jumboz, King's, K-Mac and many more, lowered springs, they would be about 30mm lowered and probably about 150lb/in

These spring makers work on an increase of about 30% over standard and have just about zero relevance to good handling. Nissan and all other car manufacturers build cars to carry passengers and luggage in the boot, their spring rates are always heavier at the back than the front for this (luggage) reason and therefore are the opposite requirement to good handling, as a RWD car should have the front harder/stiffer than the rear and FWD the opposite way round.

I have a set of custom 40mm lowered 200lb/in Jumboz made rear springs I took out of my original MR30 Hatch project car, IF your interested. But they would have to be matched with a set of fronts around 260lb/in.

Cheers,

D

I dont have specs on these units. Bit of a bummer really. I did speak to them about getting custom springs made to any spec i want. maybe 30% up on what i have right now.

I could be possible intrested in those rears. atm i wieghing up on options. I have got a set of r31 aussy front struts and hubs ect. Will fit them and see how they work with my springs. sure will look better with a 40mm drop in the front.

[Sydneykid]

I dont have specs on these units. Bit of a bummer really. I did speak to them about getting custom springs made to any spec i want. maybe 30% up on what i have right now.

I could be possible intrested in those rears. atm i wieghing up on options. I have got a set of r31 aussy front struts and hubs ect. Will fit them and see how they work with my springs. sure will look better with a 40mm drop in the front.

Send me the spring dimensions and I will work out the spring rates for you. This thread shows you how;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

cheers

[stagefumer11]

Send me the spring dimensions and I will work out the spring rates for you. This thread shows you how;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

cheers

Will do. get back to ya soon .

Im intrested in those Spacer rubber shims used up in this thread. notice a diffrence at all ?

[DR30RULES]

I've done all of the work my self. I'll borrow a camera off of my brother and get some photo's of how I went about doing it, as it will show it a lot better.

Can we see pics please?

Have you driven the car with the steering conversion yet?