Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a ticking noise coming from something in the engine bay.

sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car towards the front of the engine.

its louder on start up but gets a bit softer after a 10 seconds of running but i can still hear it.

any idea's before i take it to someone to get looked at end up paying for things i dont need?

thanks

ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112010-i-have-a-ticking-noise-help-please/
Share on other sites

Cold or Warm starts?

Could be the lifters just getting their first sqiurt of oil for the day.

Alternativly, the stock injectors are pretty damn loud on RB's?

Could also even be the fan hitting against a pipe (in my case FMIC) or wire thats loose?

Has your timing belt been changed; or alternaviely how many (genuine) kms has the car done?

btw:- bring it out on the next sthn SA crusie!

Edited by Tangles

i had a similar noise with my series2 not long after a long trip recently so got the belts all done on the front including the timing belt just to be sure and noises all gone now, all the drive belts were cracked an mechanic said it sometimes happens cos of the chemicals they spray the cars with when they de-bug them for quarantine?.

must react with the rubber i spose.

timing belt was done very recently

its on both warm and cold starts

fan clears the cooler pipe... just :D

i took it to my local mechanic today and he thinks its the exhaust manifold gasket. sound right to you guys?

"Just"

Theres your issue

Paint some black paint on your pipe, then start it and see if it rubs any of the black paint off.

I know because my pipes are painted black and the paint gets taken off. Put some sandpaper there to wear it down.

no it isnt that.

it clears. that was the first thing i thought it was.

there is a 5 mm gap

ive grabbed the pipe and pulled it up away from the fan and its still there. ive also pushed the pipe down and it still doesnt quite touch the fan, its braced quite solid.

I'll be doing the same when i get my turbo high flowed, i had a nut missing off my exhaust manifold, Doesn't seem to be leaking but will pull it all off and replace the gasket just to be sure.

  • 3 weeks later...
I'll be doing the same when i get my turbo high flowed, i had a nut missing off my exhaust manifold, Doesn't seem to be leaking but will pull it all off and replace the gasket just to be sure.

I head a similiar noise that begun just after I had my cat off and on. I hunted it down to 3 nuts and studs missing from my exhaust manifold! I dunno where they went, car is an unmodified import. I guess the stress on manifold of me playing around with cat made it start to leak.

Why are other peoples exahust manifolds missing bolts too? Seems odd to me. Suppose I'll have to pull it to bits now!

what oxford1327 said interests me, ie the chemicals sprayed on to decontaminate the car. As mentioned in "electronic rust prevention" the undersides of my S1 ar veiled in a film of rust (corrosion). Especially the bits that were cad plated.Apart from having a flat battery yesterday this rust is the only thing that isses me off.

Its going to cost $640 at Endrust to get it fixed.

what oxford1327 said interests me, ie the chemicals sprayed on to decontaminate the car. As mentioned in "electronic rust prevention" the undersides of my S1 ar veiled in a film of rust (corrosion). Especially the bits that were cad plated.Apart from having a flat battery yesterday this rust is the only thing that isses me off.

Its going to cost $640 at Endrust to get it fixed.

Odd - mine is completely rust free underneath - pefect! Nor have I found any ceramic bits as yet... as yet!

I've got the same noise in my series 1. Stock injectors are noisey. Seems to be a nissan thing, the ones in my sr20 wern't much quieter. But i have also noticed that the boost control solernoid is also a bit noisey.

There are pollution control solenoids which ticker away - best solution is to rubber mount them. However these are at the back of the motor and not the front, so I could be sending you on a rabbit hunt.

  • 1 month later...

Though not a Stagea Tick, but still Nissan.

Gave the S13 an oil change and this time changed the filter and changed the plugs. Put in the required amount

of oiland on start up a diabolical tick. More like an elf with a sledge hammer. The boys thought some foreign body got in thru a plug hhole, etc etc etc. Every time it started, tick,tick wtf.

The oil light didn't come on an the ECU was checked. Nope.

In desperation I put a bottle of Nulon in. The effin tick Stopped. Why.

My thought is that somehow the oil pump got an air lock and maybe the extra bit of lubricant helped it pick up properly. I have never experianced any5thing like this in 50yrs of oil changing, and we have changed the S13 and 180sx drifters many times before with no probs.

After the noise went away, the car was taken for a thrash up toBrissie and the next day was flogged a bit at

Queensland Raceway.Runs sweet as a nut.

Has anybody experienced this type of problem? The guys on Sil had no ideas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
×
×
  • Create New...