Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing A Air/fuel Guage

twoquik

By twoquik,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted

What brand is it? Different colour wires for different brands.

Basically it's one wire for power, one wire for ground and one wire piggy backing off the O2 sensor wire coming off the dump pipe. Best to make the join at the ECU pin out. (number 29 I think...can someone please confirm?)

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted

Not sure why but I had a mate that bridged it at the O2 sensor at the dump pipe and it shorted his stock ECU. Besides, it's much easier to run a wire from your dash/ A pillar to your stock ECU rather than run a wire through your firewall and onto your sensor.

Let Me Drive Mentor

Let Me Drive

Posted
Posted

i agree with paul i have one and it does nothing good but jump all around when driving and nothing much else, get a oil temp or a water temp they are much more usefull in drive and knowing whats going on under the bonnet

leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

If you have had a look at the wire on top of the 02 sensor it is thin as you would want to be very careful you dont cut it off.

i dont completly agree with paulr33 on this issue. yes in most cases it's not that great but when you are giving it to the car it does give you a good indication of how rich/lean your car is running however in day to day driving its crap like "let me drive" said it does just bounce all over the place

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

it will not give you an accurate representation of "rich" or "lean" im afraid. its too narrow and slow for anything "human" usesful. it is for ecu closed loop feedback to save fuel ecomony and nothing else. i certainly wouldnt use the value reported on the guage for anything other than a giggle factor when you boot it, cos all its going to do is show "rich" when you do, which if course is fairly obvious, of course its rich.

try a wideband sensor in the car with a guage and watch the difference, then its worth it. by all means do it, just dont expect anything useful from the guage other than rich lean bouncing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...