Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thejackal I'm currently researching upgrading my brakes too. Most ppl say that the stock R33 rotors and calipers are pretty damn good and that a good set of pads is the best value upgrade...so that's what I'm doing. Spend money on a good set of quality pads with high friction co-efficient and even get your rotors machined.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1122-brake-upgrade-options/
Share on other sites

At this stage I don't know much about this topic so I need all the help I can get.

What options do I have as far as upgrading the rotors, callipers, pads etc.

I have 18" wheels so I wouldn't mind getting bigger rotors that fill out the space. If I do this can I use the current callipers or should I upgrade the callipers too?

I don't have a budget on this yet but I don't want it to cost an arm and a leg. What brands should I look at? Does anybody have any of these items for sale at the moment?

I will worry about pads after I choose what I'm doing with rotors and callipers.

Cheers;)

Just to give you an idea..

I've looked through a few magazines and asked a few places.

Usually front slotted/cross drilled go for about $250+ (dba)

Another quote i got is from Racebrakes for a 33GTST

Front 296mm slotted $267.00 Each inc GST

Rear 297mm slotted $215.00 Each inc GST

Thats... say $550 not including install... and they're only just

upgrading rotors using the same calipars...

All i know is that if you want monster rotors and calipars...

eg.. AP... I hope you have a big pocket full of money..... :D

and if you do.. can i have some... :wavey:

I was looking at the same upgrade - I get too much fade at the track.

Has anyone done a major upgrade to their brakes? What were the changes and approx cost? How much better were they?

I'm sick of having to slow down after 5 quick laps!

Guest Stocker

Drilled rotors will definitely help, but you should really make up or have someone make up some decent cooling ducts for your front brakes. It makes a huge difference.

I don't know what model Skyline you have, does it have dust shields behind the rotors? If so, grab some tinsnips, cut them, and pull them away from the rotor, so it forms a sort of scoop. It's dirt cheap, but really works.

If you don't have dust shields, you'll have to fabricate a duct that clamps around the bottom of the strut....or you could shape up some foam and fiberglass up some shapes. I'll be getting around to this at some stage(I have an R31, they are the definition of underbraked!), have done this before on cars I have owned that are underbraked, and it makes a huge difference. You won't stop any faster, but your stopping power will be a lot more consistent.

Try to direct the air at either the centre of the rotor, or if your calipers are mounter forward of the strut, at the calipers.

This really is something worth doing, you will definitely notice an improvement.

Regards, Andrew.

I would have to say go slotted rotors. Currently my standard rotors have little hairline cracks. This is caused by heating the rotors up, then cooling down quickly.

Best bet, change fluid and get better pads. Sometimes fade is caused by the fluid boiling. If that's not enough, change brake hose lines to braided ones. This will stop the sponge feeling of the brakes under load. If this doesn't work, go rotors. If that doesn't work, calipers. And if that doesn't work, god help you!! Trick is, go the cheapest option, to the expensive option.

Most guys I know at the track with 33 gtst's have standard rotors/calipers and do good times. Just good pads and skills are needed to get good times. Ric Shaw (racer) only brakes 3 times when he's at Wakefield!!! Yeah.... :uh-huh:

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Ric Shaw (racer) only brakes 3 times when he's at Wakefield!!! Yeah.... :uh-huh:

OK, I'll bite.

I brake at end of the straight, into the top of the hill, down at the hairpin and onto the main straight.

So is Ric driving a Daihatsu Sirion, or did he crash on one of the corners?;)

I also seem to have hairline cracks on the rotors when I change the pads - they always need machining. I've done the pads and fluid, so I was thinking rotors next. Has anyone upgraded to larger rotors?

Duncan,

He did that in one of my mate's Toyota Celica. It was at the track day which I organised a while back. One of my friends was tailing him and counted 3 times when the rear lights flashed. They timed him and he did 1 min and 16 sec I think. That's damn quick considering the best he could manage before was 1:32, and 1:26 afterwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...