Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

I’m looking for anyone who has some, experience with running anti-lag with an aftermarket turbo. It doesn’t have to be an RB engine.

My many question is, how much does anti-lag reduce an aftermarket turbo life-span.

Now the anti-lag won't be running 24/7, mainly for track uses only (so it would be uses once a month) and many the odd, time off the track for say a few min's at a time.

Now i know that even if its running for 30second, the amount of heat on the turbo will be at extreme level (i picuter it as alittle bomb going off in the turbo), but would this do much damage to an aftermarket turbo?

I notice alot of wrx/evo running it (and have seen more than a handful of wrx running it on the street now and then) what makes their turbo so different to something that you would find on a rb engine?

My application is an Rb25 with hks turbo (gt2835pros) if that makes a difference?

any help would be welcomed

thanks michael :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112208-true-anti-lag-and-turbo-life-span/
Share on other sites

Nobody can give you an answer as to how much the life span will reduce. It might even last longer than an equivalent car without the anti lag. Too many variables to say running the AL will reduce its life by xx%.

I assume you have also thought about the other side effects of running the anit lag? As in greatly increased heat in the exhaust manifold and entire system which could lead to premature cracking of the manifold especially if it wasnt great to begin with. Do you have a CAT? Underbonnet temps will also rise dramatically. Which could lead to premature wear of anything too close to the manifold. The exhaust valves will also take a decent beating.

Heat management needs to be very carefully planned when using this type of system if you dont want the car to burn to the ground.

Nobody can give you an answer as to how much the life span will reduce. It might even last longer than an equivalent car without the anti lag. Too many variables to say running the AL will reduce its life by xx%.

I assume you have also thought about the other side effects of running the anit lag? As in greatly increased heat in the exhaust manifold and entire system which could lead to premature cracking of the manifold especially if it wasnt great to begin with. Do you have a CAT? Underbonnet temps will also rise dramatically. Which could lead to premature wear of anything too close to the manifold. The exhaust valves will also take a decent beating.

Heat management needs to be very carefully planned when using this type of system if you dont want the car to burn to the ground.

thanks for the reply FATGTS-R :)

I didnt really think about heat management will have to look into that alot before running AL.

I will be running stock manifold, which is cast-iron should hold up.

I might do some testing around the track, do 1 or 2laps pull in check the temp in the engine bay. or even better i might setup the reading in the car then make alonger cable to the metal stick can stay in the engine bay so i can watch the temp.

thanks again for the reply fatgts-r you given me abit to think about :(

thanks michael :)

would something like an Exhaust Housing Blanket, be a good idea for the turbo? or would that keep the heat in and result in the heat staying on the turbo for longer after the car has cooled down.

the turbo comes with a HKS heat-shield i put that one for sure :)

Michael, Your factory manifold will bend and snap the rear manifold studs in the head.

is this a common problem steve with increase heat in the engine bay?

can it be fix with using an aftermarket Stainless Steel Manifold like HKS (not a chinacopy one)

hmm might have to look at adding an vent near the turbo on the bonnet :)

Yes its common even on hipo engines without antilag.

The turbo you have is good enough without antilag anyway.

Thought you sold it?

thanks for the reply steve :)

change my mind once again, it will be going on now :(

I understand antilag isnt really needed on the turbo, but its a nice extra and i've already bought it now :) manily uses it for drag/track uses and i do that once i month if im lucky. im hoping with only running it a few mins a month everything should hold up

Michael,

I've got an Autronic going into my rex with AL and Rotational Idle. I'm still unsure whether i'll be hooking the AL up at all, but my plan if I do is to see if I can have the warning light on my Defi EGT gauge hooked up to the AL and if it comes on it will switch the AL off...

Might not be possible but I think it would be a good safety measure to keep the temps down...

cheers

Brett

Michael,

I've got an Autronic going into my rex with AL and Rotational Idle. I'm still unsure whether i'll be hooking the AL up at all, but my plan if I do is to see if I can have the warning light on my Defi EGT gauge hooked up to the AL and if it comes on it will switch the AL off...

Might not be possible but I think it would be a good safety measure to keep the temps down...

cheers

Brett

thanks brett :( let us know how it goes if you end up hooking it up.

looks like i might have to invest in a good temp gauge

ps im the dude that bought ur plates :D i think antilag and evl go together :(

i would suggest speaking to GCG or a turbo repair shop and ask for the common failures that occur with antilag and how much its going to cost you to rebuild the HKS core as it could be quite costly, and likely to fail

i would suggest speaking to GCG or a turbo repair shop and ask for the common failures that occur with antilag and how much its going to cost you to rebuild the HKS core as it could be quite costly, and likely to fail

i keep hitting a wall when i think about AL and turbo failure.

I've seen 1st hand, my friends wrx running antilag for over a year without a problem or turbo failure. now he didnt run it all the time but he did run it a fair bit.

Im not saying that it wont cause wear.... just seems like the wrx/evo seem to be ok running it

' date='4 Apr 2006, 05:25 PM' post='2070974']

I've seen 1st hand, my friends wrx running antilag for over a year without a problem or turbo failure. now he didnt run it all the time but he did run it a fair bit.

Im not saying that it wont cause wear.... just seems like the wrx/evo seem to be ok running it

Every setup is different.

Fundamentals are the same... but each setup you should talk yo your tuner/performance mechanic about as ultimately they are the ones doing the work

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

though i give abit of update on this topic;

I got the Antilag Install but had issue because i was running a Apexi PFC Ecu, so i contacted GRiD and they informed me that the chip needed to be rechip and then it should work no problem. So i sent it off to japan and few $$$ later i had it on the car and it finally works.

What i found was interesting it is not a true anti lag but a misfiring system. Now I've tested it a few times and so far I've found

At Drags: Works good for launching i am able to setup the system to activate between 3000-4000rpm, as soon as i'm on the gas boost comes on very hard and fast (almost no lag) unfortunately my lsd is very worn and i wasn't able to take full advantage of the system because i was getting lot of wheel spin

At Mc: Works great, the track is a short track with top speed being max of 3rd gear (alot of 2nd gear turns), i found setting the system to 3000-4000rpm gave me the best results, mid turn i was able to jump onto the gas and feel less lag compare with not running the system.

On the Street: It does not work at all, just has the affect of making huge flames out of the exhaust.

I found that the car generally got hotter on runs when the system was on compare to when the system was off, of course there was the huge flames out of the exhaust (no issue with burning my rear bar or boot)

To Summaries:

I found the system to works BEST when on full throttle, so the system works good on the track but on the street it doesn't help in reducing the lag.

Cheers Michael

ps hopefully i can get some videos uploaded of the system working on the car when i was at mc

Antilag works by retarding timming and injecting extra fuel, it virually ignites the fuel right at the end of the stroke and therefore creating a "huge" explosion, this promotes the turbo to spool up at lower revs and under no load.

For those of you with AL what settings are you using and what boost do u get in relation to RPM?

Edited by jnr32r

It sounds to me like the system he's using is what David Vizard thought up and called Electronic Boost Lag Eliminator . The launch part of that system uses a two stage rev limiter which controls rpm by degrading and retarding the ignition timing . At a pre set inlet manifold pressure the limiter changes from low to high ie launch revs to maximum desired revs . In operation it means the driver can sit on the line with the acceleratoor floored and the primary ignition timing limit used to hold the engine speed at the desired launch revs . In this state the engine is turning fast enough to generate enough exhaust gas to spin the turbine and make measurable boost . DV managed to get 8 lbs of boost with his car stationary in neutral and this was with a low tech 2L Ford SOHC iron lump carburetted (atmittedly at 8000 revs !) .

I reckon if you could get an aftermarket management system to retard ignition at certain revs and wide open throttle/s you could probably generate enough extra exhaust flow to pull the boost threshold down a bit . I also think its easier (not necessarily cheaper) to size the turbo to suit the application and take the flow restrictions out of the system - both sides .

As for the Turbo HKS has not done everyone any great favour by only offering that GT2835 Pro S in the largest available compressor trim (56T) in that wheels family .

Enough of my theorising . It would help if you'd tell us what exactly your power curve feels like and where its not to your liking . If its on a road circuit and the boost threshold is too high maybe something a little smaller like a GT2530 would suit your cars weight and gear ratios better .

Food for thought Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...