Jump to content
SAU Community

How Do I Replace Headlight Globe?

DellieB

By DellieB,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

DellieB Rookie

DellieB

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone.

I've only recently purchased my 1997 Stagea and need to replace one of the headlight globes. I'm a bit of a girly girl, so have less than no idea about these things! :yes:

So, can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Thanks!

Dellie :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112252-how-do-i-replace-headlight-globe/
Share on other sites
DellieB Rookie

DellieB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi again.

Actually Terminal, I'm back to ask about the clip. I don't seem to have enough room for my hand to get in and access the clip to get the globe out. : Is there an easy way to do this? Hubby thought there might be a way to get the headlight out, but I think this is a bit extreme - we're talking about a globe!!!

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Dellie

Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

you don't need to remove the light. with the clip, just push it in, the turn it around slightly and it come loose. then you can remove the bulb easy. it's a bit tricky, but it idoes coem out. it's a bit of a spring to hold the blub in.

  • 2 years later...
Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

this doesnt work. ive uncliped the wire clip and the globe is still jammed in tight. i tried turning it (both directions) and it wont budge. i then also removed every screw around the globe and its still very tight. does this method work on series 2 or is there some other method?? ive searched several times for other info but every other thread is about xenons and doesnt mention how to remove the globe

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

1st remove plug from bulb 2nd unscrew black retaining ring (bayonet type, just a turn a/clockwise) this then reveals rubber boot (seal) remove, a closer inspection & you will notice bulb is held in by spring clip, remove bulb, bulb has 3 positioning pins

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted
1st remove plug from bulb 2nd unscrew black retaining ring (bayonet type, just a turn a/clockwise) this then reveals rubber boot (seal) remove, a closer inspection & you will notice bulb is held in by spring clip, remove bulb, bulb has 3 positioning pins

nope it wasnt anything like that. i removed the headlight for a better look and discovered that it was just jammed in there. so i grabbed the globe with a pair of pliers and gave it a wiggle and it came out. also the was no rubber boots or retaining rings.

i simply removed the grey cover off the back of the headlight by turning it a 1/4 turn anticlockwise which exposed the back of the globe. then i unplugged the wires off the globe and unclipped the retaining wire(i think u call this a spring clip), grabbed the globe with some pliers and pulled it out. the globe in my headlight is a h7 (which has 1 positioning pin) not a h4 (which has 3 positioning pins) like everybody else seems to have.

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

mine prob died from moisture too. weve had alot of rain latey(600mm over 6 months)and the importers did a dodgy job on the wiring when they removed the xenons. they just drilled a hole in the headlight and poked the wire through, leaving a big hole for moisture too get in. so i covered the hole with silicone. i dont know if it will work, but its worth a try.

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
nope it wasnt anything like that. i removed the headlight for a better look and discovered that it was just jammed in there. so i grabbed the globe with a pair of pliers and gave it a wiggle and it came out. also the was no rubber boots or retaining rings.

i simply removed the grey cover off the back of the headlight by turning it a 1/4 turn anticlockwise which exposed the back of the globe. then i unplugged the wires off the globe and unclipped the retaining wire(i think u call this a spring clip), grabbed the globe with some pliers and pulled it out. the globe in my headlight is a h7 (which has 1 positioning pin) not a h4 (which has 3 positioning pins) like everybody else seems to have.

weird how one model can be so different wether it's a s1 or s2,the 2 i've checked have had the same plastic retaining ring and rubber boot(obviously to stop moisture) but the way some are hacked when complied you could end up with anything

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...