Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heyas, after a good dyno tune for my line. Can someone reccommend tuners they have had good experience with? I live in Parramatta so would be convenient if they were close by. Also, when I rev hard in my GTS-T, I hear a rattling noise....sounds like a loose bolt hitting metal, I've been told its my fuel pump but not too sure...thanks for helping fellas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/
Share on other sites

heyas, after a good dyno tune for my line. Can someone reccommend tuners they have had good experience with? I live in Parramatta so would be convenient if they were close by. Also, when I rev hard in my GTS-T, I hear a rattling noise....sounds like a loose bolt hitting metal, I've been told its my fuel pump but not too sure...thanks for helping fellas.

pinging by the sounds of it buddy, dont thrash it til u get it lookd at, it will kill ur motor quik. could b fuel fump, wrong timing, injectors maxxing out, computer not running properly, cud b a lot of things... get a pro lyk croydon 2 look at it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2071564
Share on other sites

advice taken, CRD are going to call me back to book a date to bring it in. Sorry about the thread i tried a search for "dyno" "tuner" etc. not much luck.

I spoke to my mechanic (very competant, always working on turbo imports especially skylines) and he is most definite that it is the fuel I'm using. My line is running BP Ultimate most of the time, other times its BP Unleaded, Shell Unleaded or Shell Optimax....could it possibly be that I'm using too many different fuels? or too much of the same fuel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2073775
Share on other sites

just gave hitman a call, he rekons i shouldn't be running anything less than 98 oct :D since fuel in japan is stronger. He recommended runing it till its empty, and then fill up full tank of ultimate, and if its still pinging to give him a call to book a tune. I think I might end up going with Hitman instead of CRD, did a search and most guys here have had good results from him, as well him being cheaper :laugh:

I'll let yas know how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2073871
Share on other sites

just gave hitman a call, he rekons i shouldn't be running anything less than 98 oct :) since fuel in japan is stronger. He recommended runing it till its empty, and then fill up full tank of ultimate, and if its still pinging to give him a call to book a tune. I think I might end up going with Hitman instead of CRD, did a search and most guys here have had good results from him, as well him being cheaper :)

I'll let yas know how it goes.

ALWAYS use 98 octane petrol - for the few cents per litre difference its not worth the hassle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2074259
Share on other sites

ALWAYS use 98 octane petrol - for the few cents per litre difference its not worth the hassle.

Ya :D

Since I got my car last year, ive always used BP Ultimate, untill there was the period where it ran out. I used Shell optimax. I felt the car running less power but more kms.

Since then ive always put in BP ultimate and never less..

So yea, if can afford a perfromance car give it the good juice!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2074788
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Problems sold, by CRD (wasn't bothered to go to penrith :bunny: ). Main problem were the sparks. not sure exactly which ones my mechanic put in, iridium heat range 6 ones. after putting in the right ones, the boys at crd persisted to run the car again to see if there are any other problems and wa-lah everything was fine. :D

forgot to get the first run's readout but got the last. I can tell you that the first run showed a shocking curve...

post-5020-1145147206.jpg

car runs ALOT smoother now, and just feels healthier all round. Going back to get a Walbro installed (lazy pump was also revealed on the day), and might set the controller to around 10-12psi. cheers for the help fellas i'll post up again after pump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112333-sydney-tuners/#findComment-2095339
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...