Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So if I were to get the Nismo injectors (was leaning towards these anyway) are they a straight fit into the stock fuel rail? I've had a brief look around for an aftermarket fuel rail (HKS, Sard, GReddy) and there doesn't seem to be one for an RB25DET. Also would it be essential/recommended to uprgade the AFM with the injectors? Just trying to see how much I need to buy before I get the Emanage installed so I can do it all in one hit. I've already done the fuel pump and a Nismo fuel pressure regulator is on the way.

"Five days on an all sprout diet with a wall papering video and a crochet magazine and we've all turned into crazies!"

So if I were to get the Nismo injectors (was leaning towards these anyway) are they a straight fit into the stock fuel rail? I've had a brief look around for an aftermarket fuel rail (HKS, Sard, GReddy) and there doesn't seem to be one for an RB25DET. Also would it be essential/recommended to uprgade the AFM with the injectors? Just trying to see how much I need to buy before I get the Emanage installed so I can do it all in one hit. I've already done the fuel pump and a Nismo fuel pressure regulator is on the way.

"Five days on an all sprout diet with a wall papering video and a crochet magazine and we've all turned into crazies!"

thanks for your reply man.my car's coil pack already all ****ed up by that.now I looking for the coil pack.be careful when you do it......good luck

  • 3 weeks later...

Does the greddy e manage with profec e01 controller monitor knock?

Is it possible to get rid of the speed limit and change the rev limit using the emanage?

Is it much harder to install on a rb20det? Lots of wire puzzling?

What optional harnasses do I need using e manage with profec e01 on rb20det besides the normal ignition and injector harnasses to do all necessary?

Seem not to find real answers on these questions in the thread. I hope I am not asking things wich are already explained.

  • 1 month later...

OK, so after almost a year of having the GReddy Emanage lying around accumulating cobwebs and dust, I finally got it installed yesterday and tuned. The tuner that I had chosen had no experience with the Emanage b4 but was keen to give it a go. But really, the Emanage is not that hard to tune or install when you have the harness kit.

Initially, with the following mods:

- Apexi pod filter

- Trust R-SPL FMIC

- Blitz SBC idIII

- MV Stage 1 shift kit

- HKS split dump pipe

- Blitz 3' front pipe

- 3' Hi-flow Cat

- Blitz 3' NUR spec exhaust

- Bosch 040 fuel pump

- BP Ultimate fuel

- Bald Hankook Ventus K104 tyres

The line pulled 148.3 rwkw with 10psi of boost. Now, after installing the eManage and a few hours later 198.4 rwkw was achieved with 12psi of boost. The turbo is still stock and so are the coils. The plugs haven't been changed in about 12 months but are NGK platinums with the standard gap of 1.1 (I think).

That's the good part of the story!

A couple of things that I noticed while the car was going through its last couple of runs was that towards the end of each run little puffs of black smoke started farting out of the exhaust. I was told that this was because the plugs needed to be changed and that I should shorten their gaps.

Another problem occured when the car was idling and the kick panel was being placed back into position. As pressure was applied to the kick panel onto the ecu, the engine would turn off. I was told that it was something to do with the wiring in the harness.

Finally, the last problem was realised a little while later when I had left the tuners. The car seems to want to change gears at higher revs which is really a kick in the back. I can induce a shift by fully, not partially, backing off the accelerater at a reasonable point. Now even with overdrive on fourth gear will only engage when travelling at 100 kph. Even at 60-80 kph and backing off the throttle, third will be the highest gear selected. Also, when the car is warm and the gear is put into neutral, revs will drop to 500rpm and start hunting up and down. It also happens when the car is started when warm.

So as you can read there has been a few positives and negatives to come out of my experience with the GReddy Emanage. Fingers crossed that these problems are not permanent and that are fixable.

If anyone, DAN666 in particular, can shed some light on these problems, could you please reply to this post. I'm going to check to see whether the tuner had missed something myself with a PC 2morrow.

wouldn't the car wanting to change gears at higher revs be to do with the shift kit?

No, the problem is not related to the shift kit as this was done b4 the tune and everything was fine. Its just not going into 4th gear unless I'm at 100kph and back off the throttle.

I'm just curious to know what was done on the Emanage to have this effect on the shifts. The Emanage only intercepts Air/Fuel and Ignition timing. Would changing the ignition timing affect shift points?

OK since the harness plugs into the ecu loom and also the ecu, maybe signals required for gear changes are getting screwed with before being passed to the ecu. And since the engine would cut out when pressure was applied to the harness then the wiring within the harness must be screwed. I may have just answered my own Q. :lol: Keep the suggestions coming in though!

Most likely due to the Emanage changing the TPS signal. Shift points are usually shift event vs TPS vs road speed. ie at 100% throttle the car will change gear 1st to 2nd at say 55km/hr. Although I cant really see any reason why they would have changed TPS signal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...