Jump to content
SAU Community

Intake temp cooling options.  

45 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey Fellow Wagoneers,

I am interested in knowing what people think of different styles of intercoolers. I only recently found out that PWR have bought out a "barrel" style, duel pass, water to air intercooler that you can fit between your standard intercooler & the T/B. The full setup (intercooler, pump, radiator, & plumbing) costs about the same as a decent sized Air to Air installed, but has a lot more stelth & from what I've read, alot more efficiant.

Before everyone directs me to the search button & gives me instructions on it's use, I have used it.

What i'm after is your opinion &/or ideas on how we can further cool intake temps.

Regards,

Jeff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112452-intake-temp-cooling-options/
Share on other sites

the only reason you'd go for a water-air intercooler is when there's no room for an air-air. they're more efficient as the energy only has to transfer one medium, not two (water to air still has a radiator making it from air - water - air)

i am also looking at fitting a water to air cooler and have looked at several options but the water to air option seems to be the way i will go as it is more discreet as well as being a bit more efficient, i will however watch this thread for updates and also opinions

Value for money an air-air cooling will be best.

I mean, youll get a bit less response, but if you can feel it when driving, you are not driving hard enough, or high enough in the rev range.

Went for a drive last night and after stopping to let everything cool down, my GTR cooler was hot to touch on one side and very cold on the other. I mean, how much more cooling could you possibly want.

To the best of my knowledge, apart from times when air-air's dont fit, the use of a air-water-air cooler is for drag racing when you want to have instant cold intake temps off the line.

Mate, if you want to go all out, get a big box of dry ice, run about a metre of pipe through that box, and theres your cooler. Air will be ice cold when it exists.

only reason other than being discreet for fitting a water to air type is that you wont have to butcher the front of the car to fit it in there! and you also have less pipework to stuff in the bay.

It's all about your power target and what you use the car for. What is good intercooling for a 200 4wkw daily driver is not good intercooling for a 600 4wkw drag car.

Until I have some idea of the power target and the intended usage pattern I don't think I can respond to the question.

;) cheers :O

PS, I don't believe a W2A intercooler system (water pump, controller, stainless steel barrel, water pipes, modified inlet pipe work and a heat exchanger in front of the radiator) is any more stealth than a return style, A2A FMIC painted black.

in alot of ways i agree with you sydneykid but i am yet to find any one that has fitted an A2A to a series2 without butchering it? if i were to fit an A2A it would be painted matt black but am still looking at the W2A options too.

if you know of anyone who has done a series2 fit out i would be keen to see pics or get details of which kit? as all the ones i have seen in the forums have beeen on series1 stags

Well, I'm going to fit an intercooler water spray this weekend that i'm making from a corrolla wash bottle($10 from wreakers, a couple of garden watering system mist nozzles $2 each & a switch i had in the garage, about $5).

I'll get some pics & a how to incase anyone else wants to have a go.

Should be interesting to see how it goes.

  • 5 months later...
Well, I'm going to fit an intercooler water spray this weekend that i'm making from a corrolla wash bottle($10 from wreakers, a couple of garden watering system mist nozzles $2 each & a switch i had in the garage, about $5).

I'll get some pics & a how to incase anyone else wants to have a go.

Should be interesting to see how it goes.

How did it go?

How did it go?

Haha 6 months down the track, dig it up, I like it, nice work Hugh!

How did it go, you could hook up some type of thermal switch that was also linked to rpm that would switch it on when required too... If it was effective?

Luke

I dont see any real benefit to lower intake temps beyond the std air boxs affect.

If I was serious about it, id get a hole saw, cut a hole where the stock SMIC pipe goes and run a pod to where the stock SMIC sits, otherwise I wouldnt really bother.

I personally cant see a water spray kit being that effective... unless, you sprayed liquid nitrogen or submerged the intercooler in a box of dry ice.

Infact, I think its 1hp for each 1 degree centigrade or something and a water spray kit wont bring the temperature down beyond ambient either. So lets say a decent FMIC which is probaly 10 degrees above ambient... so much effort, so little return.

How did it go?

I couldn't get a good enough one way valve for the right price so the water in the resovour would just siphon out after it was activated. I tried to move the tank lower, but still could not get it low enough for the standard smic

I dont see any real benefit to lower intake temps beyond the std air boxs affect.

If I was serious about it, id get a hole saw, cut a hole where the stock SMIC pipe goes and run a pod to where the stock SMIC sits, otherwise I wouldnt really bother.

I personally cant see a water spray kit being that effective... unless, you sprayed liquid nitrogen or submerged the intercooler in a box of dry ice.

Infact, I think its 1hp for each 1 degree centigrade or something and a water spray kit wont bring the temperature down beyond ambient either. So lets say a decent FMIC which is probaly 10 degrees above ambient... so much effort, so little return.

So what other cooling effect is it, when you see a water bag hanging off the bullbar of some old cockies ute? The water is always suprisingly cold, & all from evaporation. You think that the subie wrx sti had a IC water spray as just a gimick?

Sorry, just a bit of rambling.....

Just my opinion.

Regards,

Jeff

One way antisiphon valve, buy one from your local aquarium retailer.

Mix 70/30 water and metho. Guaranteed to lower the intercooler fins to 15 degrees BELOW ambient at anything over 60 kph.

Don’t believe me?

Try it on your hand

Blow on a dry hand

Then wet it with water and blow again

Notice the temperature drop?

Try it with 70/30, notice even more temperature drop?

:P cheers :P

PS; EVO’s have intercooler sprays standard

Edited by Sydneykid

Nice,

I have felt that cooling metho effect before (cleaning windows) takes me back...

So it could drop the temp below ambient, very much worth it on a 30ºC + day, I thought there was something in this, just wasn't sure! Thanks SK.

Cheers

Luke

As most people, ive felt the cooling effect of metho/acetone/paint stripper before but can someone shed some lights on this from a physics point of view.

Ive got an understanding of the idea of boiling temps, latent heats etc, but someone explain to me why water has a higher latent heat of vaporization (therefore should "suck" more energy) but metho feels colder?

Substance Specific latent heat of fusion

kJ.kg-1 ºC Specific latent heat of vaporization

kJ.kg-1 ºC

Water 334 0 2258 100

Ethanol 109 -114 838 78

Ethanoic acid 192 17 395 118

Chloroform 74 -64 254 62

Mercury 11 -39 294 357

Sulphur 54 115 1406 445

Hydrogen 60 -259 449 -253

Oxygen 14 -219 213 -183

Nitrogen 25 -210 199 -196

Do you want to be using something that has a low latent heat and low boiling temperature, so it is more effective in evaporating and drawing energy out. I guess, ideally, something that has a good ratio of latent heat and boiling temp, hence being able to "suck" the most "heat" out with the least temperature change?

As far as WRX's and waterspray, well, the cooler sits on top of a hot engine block, so i am sure they wanted to do as much as they could to help the cooling without going FMIC (lag)

BTW, ARE make a kick ass dry ice to air intercooler, but obviously you need to refill that. Also on mythbusters they made this awesome copper coil in a bucket of dry ice that froze beer before it got down to teh bottom of the coil.

Anyway, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...