Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've noticed of late that when I go from first to second I get a crunch - regardless of if I'm pushing it or not (occasionally it doesn't happen though). From any other gear to second there's no crunch, and from second to any other gear is also crunchless. Actually, it's more of a feeling than a noise and it feels like one part is going faster than another. Once you get it in gear, it's fine.

Could this be the clutch playing up, or something in the 'box itself?

My previous car had a 3rd gear crunch for ages and it was OK. Mind you a new gearbox (or clutch for that matter) is worth more than the car itself. Is this likely to be a problem, or just a nusience?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/
Share on other sites

Ok, sounds like a plan.

1) What fluid should I use.. Some sort of castrol oil I imagine, but what sort?

2) How do I change it? (lol!)

3) Would I be better off paying someone to do it, or is it a simple thing? I kinda want to learn how to do small maintenance tasks by myself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-189207
Share on other sites

I have the same problem , car has now done 56,000kms and is due for a g/box oil change .

I jacked both sides of the car (with poxy car jack grr) put car stands under them went to the shed to get 1/2" drive ratchet to undo the drain plugs , couldnt find it DOH !

I bought some VMX80 Castrol oil to go in as others have had good results with it . If it doesnt solve the problem i'll look for the redline oil .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-189247
Share on other sites

Gearbox oil will help but won't cure it altogether. It's a very common problem on these cars, it's just worn synchro's, probably from too many Japanese boy racers flat-shifting before it arrived here. Redline heavy weight shockproof oil is the stuff to use if crunching is bad, if it's not too bad then try the light weight.

I find on mine that it crunches a lot less after the gearbox has warmed up. Until then I find that I can help stop crunching by not going straight into second from first, but going to the centre first (ie, where the gate for 3rd and 4th is). I can also stop crunching by doubling the clutch, but it's easier to do it the former way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-189279
Share on other sites

Ok. So first port of call is gearbox oil. I'll try some VMX80 first and it there's no luck, go to Redline. If nothing else, the VMX80 will clean out the box. I believe 3.8 litres is the magic number here :-)

Now, (to prove my general ignorance of car mechanics), I assume the drain plug is on the bottom of the gearbox. And it would make sense that the fill hole is up the top of the gearbox. Just where abouts is it?

I think I might do it next weekend when I go to my old's place.. They have some ramps I can use to hold the car up and enough tools to get by.

I had the clutch replaced as part of buying the car, 'cause during testing it would slip under heavy load. And now there's this gearbox crunching... Perhaps I should look at changing the diff oil too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-189345
Share on other sites

The Redline Shockproof Gearbox Oil is great stuff. Its very expensive but the quality is right there! It loosened up 1st and 2nd and i haven't had a 4th crunch yet.

One problem I am having though and i thought putting the redline gearbox oil would fix it but im starting to think its a clutch problem... hopefully someone could advise me.

About 5 times now (in 5mths) I have had this grinding type noise in 1st + 2nd only with the clutch is in. I can be upshifting, downshifting or just sitting at the lights and this noise will appear.

3 of these times its happened within 1km of driving so I was thinking maybe something is just abit cold and give it abit longer to warm up although Saturday night on my way home from the Palm Beach cruise (drove 100+ km that night) the noise was appearing in 1st+2nd it didnt matter how much driving the car had done.

The noise is quite loud and the first time it happened I sh1t myself, pulled over and switched off the car, infact that time I think I had it in neutral and the only way to stop the noise was to turn the car off (the noise continued for about 5sec after the ignition was off i guess as the engine/gearbox/whateva was winding down).

Does anybody have any idea what this noise is?

Its starting to scare me and its quite embarressing when you pull up at a set of lights in a nice looking car only to have this LOUD grinding noise appear. The clutch feels really nice and ive only ever dropped 1 proper burnout the rest is just hard accellerating in 2nd + 3rd + 4th and it feels fine to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-192647
Share on other sites

I have the same problem!

going 1st to second i have to give it a shake in neutral before going to 2nd when the gearbox is cold and once it's warm it's pretty much OK.

Will i have to use differnet oil cause my gears have a shortened/quick shifter in it ?

Also... where are the seals?

As mine leaks a tiny bit of oil... not enough to hit the concrete, but you get a faint whif under high load from under the Shifter boot... and it's not the nicest smell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11246-crunch-in-2nd/#findComment-193095
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on conversion rates and when you factor in Australian David Jones pricing on fabrication these days, this kit (bolt on affair, zero fab) nearly seems worth every dollar. https://www.spectrummotorsportssolutions.com/products/copy-of-gt-r-rb26-single-turbocharger-kit Their disclaimer: **Please note - While this kit includes everything needed to convert to Single Turbo without additional Fabrication, Professional installation is suggested. The PS reservoir will need to be moved from the stock location, however everything else fits R32/33/34 GTR w/ OEM AC and Power Steering Pump**.
    • I finally figured this out. That green part, can actually be pushed out. Mine was on the wrong angle because I messed around with it. So what needs to be done is the clockspring to be removed (the loom can't be removed so you need to pull the cable towards you to remove it off the shaft then let it rest on something so it's not dangling) Then you just make sure that the 3 green dots form a triangle and that the 3 holes on the steering wheel inserts into the 3 holes on the green part (you need to push out the green part to do this otherwise you'll keep having the issue with the indicators not cancelling)
    • Welcome back, If looking for a quality workshop AK Racing are the go to for everything these days. No fancy socials or attention seeking just quality work and good people. Can do everything from general servicing to full race builds that do very well at local and international events.  
    • Let me know how much you're looking to get! Thanks. 
    • Oh very very true ! I'm honestly thinking about taking my entire R33 series 3 red stitch GTR interiour out of my car, selling it and buying a small house !  I spotted as pair of R400 GTR seats on GumBay on the interweb and they were asking around the 12K mark ! 
×
×
  • Create New...