Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

New to the site, just got myself an r32 GTR and its already in getting a new clutch :mage: (was already at the end of its life when i got it :laugh: )

Anyway this is the 1st turbo car ive owned and im just interested in some launching suggestions, i didnt drop the old clutch but on the day it eventually died i think i started to get the launches good, just reving to around 3k and letting the clutch out till it starts to bite and then applying the rest of the power.

Is that ok ?? or will i burn out clutches ?? :D

Is dropping the clutch at 4-5krpm ok ? i really dont want to break anything on the car hey :dry:

Well thanks for your replies in advance :cool:

Max

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112495-launching-an-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

ouchy ... :) i will try it when i take it to the drags ... maybe once on the street to "test it"

So is that the best method ?? :)

sounds like the best method.. Your getting a fully hectic super heavy duty clutch right?

When i rev yb r32 rb25 to 7 and drop the clutch i get mad wheel spin and lots of smoke, but that shouldnt be a problem in ur all wheel drive godzilla :)

How does the gearbox cope with 7000rpm clutch dumps? From previous experience, it is best to use clutch slip to take the strain off the driveline when launching at high revs. I would have thought this would be especially important in an AWD car.

if you are driving a wrx i wouldnt recommend launching from high revs with a standard box...sure you can break boxes in gtr's as well but if your not too hamfisted with your changes it should hold up fine.. i would have done hundreds in previous 33r without any gearbox troubles

nah gazza rev it to 9 it loves it..

There are some things to worry about other than the drivetrain.

Firstly the easiest way to lunch your RB26 to to launch with the sump half full. Make sure if you are going to the drags etc that the thing is overfull - by about a litre.

Secondly - using massive rpm on launch is a really good way of destrying the oil pump on an early RB26 - you have been warned.

Finally, the amount of rpm needed depends on how sticky your tyres are. Anything in the range of 4000rpm to 6000rpm is required. I needed 6000rpm at the last hillclimb, but that is with 255 width R compounds tyres on a hot day with the car facing up hill. Most days you need less than that.

Edited by djr81
How does the gearbox cope with 7000rpm clutch dumps? From previous experience, it is best to use clutch slip to take the strain off the driveline when launching at high revs. I would have thought this would be especially important in an AWD car.

You been watching to many rexes break their boxes . GTR boxes are much stronger than that unless you have huge power in the order of 600+p.s. you wont have a problem with the box but you need a decent clutch when you start pumping some decent power .

As for the RPM you drop the clutch ( yes drop) it will depend on the tyres you hve and the turbos .

No point droping the clutch at 8000 if you are just going to spin all 4 and go nowhere . Stock turbos i would try about 5-5500 and take it from there. If she bogs down try a few more RPM until you get the balance right between wheelspin and the car bogging down .You need a certain amount of wheelspin ( all 4 ) so you wont bog down .

Edited by wrxhoon

I knew that the GTR gearboxes were good, but I didn't realise that they would put up with that sort of abuse. It is pretty common for AWD cars to have gearbox issues - mostly in WRXs, Evos, GTiR, Familia etc, the GTR was designed for racing so I guess it makes sense to have a pretty good gearbox...

Hmm lots of ideas there, thats great :ermm: ... just got it back this arvo, havent tried anything silly yet, but im going for a spin in a sec and ill see how it goes... ;)

Just a single plate heavyduty r32 plate I got installed, stocko gtr with 3" from the dumps back, nothing crazy there so it should be able to handle up to and more HP then i have.

:thumbsup:

well on the race car I:

hold it on the line with the handbrake on so it doesn't roll, and to take up some slack (hand on the button)

bring the revs up to 5500 (n1 turbos and semi slicks)

then the red light comes on (3-5 seconds to launch) let the clutch out *slightly* the car is held by the handbrake and a slipping clutch at 5500.

light goes out, drop the clutch, let the handbrake go and floor the throttle

the yellow car demonstrates:

1: Ready

029.jpg

2: Go

026.jpg

I hope MIB doesnt read this....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.
    • On a 400hp RB, what benefits other than "it's not 30+ years old" are you seeing from the NZ Wiring Kit trigger setup? If it were me going to change triggering, my belief would be to go for a crank trigger to remove the issues caused by what people claim is belt stretch etc, but that's from my understanding a much larger issue for super high power, rather than those in the 400hp and below club.
    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
×
×
  • Create New...