Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am new to the forum, and pretty new to Skylines in general. I am looking at purchasing an R33 GTR in the not-too-distant future.

My question is, how hard is it to get 350-400hp @ the wheels from an R33 GTR?

I will be doing the obligitory FMIC and exhaust mods, but what else do I need.

Is it just a matter of adding a bit more boost or is it not that simple?

Can it be done on the standard turbos?

Would this be a safe power level for an internally stock RB26?

How would the gearbox cope?

What boost does a GTR run from factory?

I am basically after a package that will give me reliable power, enough to run low 12s (at least - 11s would be better) consistantly and reliably.

I did a search before posting this, but I couldn't find any decent posts to answer these questions. If this is a stupid question that has been asked countless times before, please point me in the right direction.

Any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112508-400rwhp-from-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

You dont need 400hp to run 11's in a gtr .

You need turbos ( stockers are ceramic, very easy to drop an exhaust wheel and take the engine with them),

full exhaust, power f/c and ebc. YOu dont need another cooller for mild mods .

Ok, so the main thing is to replace the turbos.

Sorry, I am new to this, what do you mean by power f/c and ebc?

I am really only after mild mods, I really don't want to go into rebuilding the engine with different internals, new cams etc. I have been through that with my VN, I would rather stick to bolt on mods.

I think that low 12s from a daily street driven skyline would be more than adequate, how much power should I be aiming for to achieve this? Maybe 300hp @ wheels?

You won't get 400 rwhp on stock turbo's probably max to around 350 rwhp.

I would advise exhaust with split dumps, air filters/intake, PFC with EBC,adj cam gears and FMIC. With these things and good tuning you should be able to run around 1 bar boost and around 350RWHP. That should get you your low 12's that you want. Any more power will need turbo(s), clutch upgrade and re-build to run safely 400RWHP.

Ok, so the main thing is to replace the turbos.

Sorry, I am new to this, what do you mean by power f/c and ebc?

I am really only after mild mods, I really don't want to go into rebuilding the engine with different internals, new cams etc. I have been through that with my VN, I would rather stick to bolt on mods.

I think that low 12s from a daily street driven skyline would be more than adequate, how much power should I be aiming for to achieve this? Maybe 300hp @ wheels?

[/quote

Power f/c is an aftermarket computer ( programable), EBC= electronic boost controler.

These are very mild mods, but with them and a good tune she will be good for a high 11 second pass @115 mph .

As for the power on the wheels it will depend on how happy the dyno is, dont take to much notice on the power she will make on the dyno .

Thanks guys, thats a big help.

I figure if I am going to rebuild the engine and replace the turbos, I may as well stick with V8 Commodores, so I think I will try to stick to bolt on mods with around 300rwhp or so in a GTR, which should be good for mid 12s I would think.

I know that dynos can vary, I am not overly worried about figures, more just the actual performance of it.

Edited by Quinny

Cheers, I have heard of GTRs making big HP on "stock" engines. In my case, I am not after a drag car, just a quick, reliable streeter (that will occasionally get taken to WSID). It sounds like 400rwhp is pushing the limits of a stock engine and definitely past the limit of the stock turbos, so I think that if I stick to around the 300-350rwhp mark, I should be pretty right - but it is nice to know there is room for improvement if I get a bit more adventurous.

One more question: How much boost does a GTR run in stock form. Some people say 7psi, some say 12..... can anyone shed any light?

Cheers, I have heard of GTRs making big HP on "stock" engines. In my case, I am not after a drag car, just a quick, reliable streeter (that will occasionally get taken to WSID). It sounds like 400rwhp is pushing the limits of a stock engine and definitely past the limit of the stock turbos, so I think that if I stick to around the 300-350rwhp mark, I should be pretty right - but it is nice to know there is room for improvement if I get a bit more adventurous.

One more question: How much boost does a GTR run in stock form. Some people say 7psi, some say 12..... can anyone shed any light?

Stock 10psi

dont push your ceramics over 15psi or 'rattle rattle' noise in your cat convertor is a ceramic turbine wheel

Go a set of Nismo N1's or Trust T517z's or HKS2530's-then bring on 22psi!!!-with comp and fuel upgrades of course

Stock 10psi

dont push your ceramics over 15psi or 'rattle rattle' noise in your cat convertor is a ceramic turbine wheel

Go a set of Nismo N1's or Trust T517z's or HKS2530's-then bring on 22psi!!!-with comp and fuel upgrades of course

Thanks mate, I was wodering how much boost the standard turbos will take. How much power can the standard fuel system cope with? Will I need to upgrade the injectors, fuel pump, regulator or anything for 350rwhp?

Sorry for all the questions, I want to try and learn as much about these cars as I can before I go and buy one. I will have plenty more questions yet. I have been playing with Commodores for the past few years so this is kind of a new area of the performance market for me.

everyone says to pump heaps into the engine,

what about adjusting the camber??? to its flat on the road, droping the psi in the tyres... plus other mods like exhaust, boost, ecu, tune with race fuel. should run in high 11's

dont belive me, i seen it in that "motor active" dvd i got free with my tech wax!!

I don't want to go too nuts on the car, I basically want a package that is pretty quick, reliable and can be driven anytime, so race fuel is out, and as I said before, I am not after a drag car.

I want to get a stock GTR (hard to find), and I don't want to have to spend heaps of money on it.

I think the basic FMIC, exhaust, computer and boost upgrades will suffice for performance, maybe 300rwhp on 12-13psi?

I really don't want to have to keep throwning money at the car, and I don't really want to go to the extent of rebuilding the engine with forged internals and replacing the turbos.

It seems that the GTR engine has been hyped up to be tougher than it really is, and I have overestimated its capability to make easy power. Non-the-less, the R33 GTR is a nice car, and one that I have wanted for quite a while, so I still want one (and will very likely buy one soon), I just can't go as nuts as I planned to.

Edited by Quinny

hey Ben,

I bought my previous GTR stock as a rock (stock exhaust).

first thing I did was replace the stock clutch as it was a bit worn.

next I put it on the dyno which put out something like 150awkw, and the stock boost was showing 12psi. we pulled out the boost restrictor (30 sec job) and boost went upto 14.5psi and power 170awkw. at this stage the car ran 12.8@ 106. On another dyno it showed 195rwkw.

most guys here can push an easy 250-270rwkw from there standard turboed gtr's without spending big bucks. there an awesome car to drive around and easy to get good power out of them reliably.

hi champ ive got a 33 gtr and it got dynoed at 251kw atrw. Mods were zorst,1 bar boost and cam gears.

Times i cant tell you yet but if weather is permiting ill tell you 2morrow since im going to calder.

Id be expecting a mid to high 12s..Ill fill u in when i get the time.

hi champ ive got a 33 gtr and it got dynoed at 251kw atrw. Mods were zorst,1 bar boost and cam gears.

Times i cant tell you yet but if weather is permiting ill tell you 2morrow since im going to calder.

Id be expecting a mid to high 12s..Ill fill u in when i get the time.

Hope it goes well, mid 12s should be a walk in the park with 250rwkw in a GTR. I know several Commodores with around 300rwhp (225rwkw) that run high 12s, so I reckon a GTR would be better again.

Let me know how it goes.

Over the years i had a few gtrs, the closest that comes to mind was a 95 model v-spc, only mods full exhaust ( stock dumps), power f/c and ebc running 14 psi on stock turbos. She did a couple 12.3 down the wsid 1/4 . Another 33 ( none v-spec ) with the above mods + N1 turbos, stock dumps even stock airbox, she ran 11.7 @ wsid . Not difficult to run high 11's in a fairly stock gtr, much easier than a bommie and you can put the power ot the ground . I recomend you invest in a pair of turbos though, thats the weak link in the GTR's because they are ceramic wheels and not because of the size . Rb 26's are very strong and durable engines and in stock form will handle up to 450 p.s. at the flywheel, keep in mind they are only 2568cc not 5700 like the bommie .

Over the years i had a few gtrs, the closest that comes to mind was a 95 model v-spc, only mods full exhaust ( stock dumps), power f/c and ebc running 14 psi on stock turbos. She did a couple 12.3 down the wsid 1/4 . Another 33 ( none v-spec ) with the above mods + N1 turbos, stock dumps even stock airbox, she ran 11.7 @ wsid . Not difficult to run high 11's in a fairly stock gtr, much easier than a bommie and you can put the power ot the ground . I recomend you invest in a pair of turbos though, thats the weak link in the GTR's because they are ceramic wheels and not because of the size . Rb 26's are very strong and durable engines and in stock form will handle up to 450 p.s. at the flywheel, keep in mind they are only 2568cc not 5700 like the bommie .

Yes, but the commodore is naturally aspirated, where the GTR has 2 turbos making its power. In fact, the Holden V8 (not the stupid LS1) is not so different to an RB26 in terms of modification potential, they are both great engines, but make their power in different ways. Anyway, I didn't come here to discuss the virtues of GTRs vs Commodores.

Swapping the turbos does make sense, but it is an expense I wasn't really planning to outlay. It sounds like 350rwhp and low 12s or high 11s is a pretty good target for a relatively stock GTR.

Ok, I think I have a plan sorted now. Step 1: Find the right car to start playing with......

Yes, but the commodore is naturally aspirated, where the GTR has 2 turbos making its power. In fact, the Holden V8 (not the stupid LS1) is not so different to an RB26 in terms of modification potential, they are both great engines, but make their power in different ways. Anyway, I didn't come here to discuss the virtues of GTRs vs Commodores.

Swapping the turbos does make sense, but it is an expense I wasn't really planning to outlay. It sounds like 350rwhp and low 12s or high 11s is a pretty good target for a relatively stock GTR.

Ok, I think I have a plan sorted now. Step 1: Find the right car to start playing with......

Its much cheaper to change turbos when you buy the car , rather than spit an exhaust wheel and change the turbos then + the engine . As i said before i dont go much on rwhp or awhp because dynos read differently so i dont quote power . When you do the 1/4 mile you cant cheat on power there .

I wouldnt compare a pushrod V8 with an RB26, totaly different donks but its your choice, if you like to compare them do so . I can tell you one thing you have to do a lot of mods to the V8 commie to even go near a lightly modded GTR and i speak from experiance here, even when you have the power in the commie you will have to use drag ryres to have any chance to even keep up with the GTR.

If you arte seriously looking for a stock 33 R give a p.m. i know someone that has a v-spec for sale at a keen price .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
    • When you looking to buy injectors?? I could possibly sell you my 1d1700s for decent price. Done little work I just need bigger again 😫 
    • Is a dirty cheese eating surrender monkey in drag.
    • I'm late to the party. Been busy with a newborn... Keeping me up at all hours of the night.  I'll look into purchasing ID 1750's then! Thanks everyone for the concrete evidence. 
×
×
  • Create New...