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A few facts

- my R34GTT ECU doesn't want to reset (ie. disconnect the battery and pump the brake a heap of times doesn't work)

- my near stock R34 runs a ton better and with heaps better fuel economy when I add octane booster

- my near stock R34 seems to go a bit quicker than I think it should

- have now installed a SAFCII (not yet tuned) and found some of the ECU wires have been previously messed with - indicating a removed device

- the ECU has been opened (warranty/sticker is broken)

- it runs 12-13psi max with no probs (and no boost control whatsoever), but detonates (or boost cuts not sure) right at the top of the rev range - even with a full bottle octane booster added

So, what I am after is for anyone that has seen inside an R34GTT ECU to have a close look at my photos to tell me if anything is different to stock (chip etc). Nothing looks out of place to me, but thought I'd pose the question.

Thanks.

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its un-chipped.

Remember your car with the stock ECU is tuned for Jap fuel, not Aust Fuel

What do you mean by it does not want to reset? Its not like the thing flashes lights to tell you it "has" been reset :D

the ECU does not control the boost solenoid under the engine bay, so your actuator might be modded.

Are you basing it off the stock boost gauge or aftermarket one?

Split wires to the ECU just means an S-AFC or similar was used in japan

its un-chipped.

>> I figured as much, thanks

Remember your car with the stock ECU is tuned for Jap fuel, not Aust Fuel

>> yes, hence why I'd notice the ECU being reset - the car would run differently, but doesn't. It shoud relearn for 98ron fuel to some extent, but continues to run very lean at the top of the rev range.

What do you mean by it does not want to reset? Its not like the thing flashes lights to tell you it "has" been reset :D

>> see above - but the fact that it runs much better and is much more fuel efficient with octane booster indicates it is still tuned for 100ron fuel (ie. not reset).

the ECU does not control the boost solenoid under the engine bay, so your actuator might be modded.

Are you basing it off the stock boost gauge or aftermarket one?

>> true, I haven't checked the boost solenoid yet. Aftermarket boost gauge - the boost is definitely hitting 12/13psi max, but 10psi most of the time. Interestingly my car doesn't do the low/high boost thing - makes me double wonder about the boost solenoid.

Split wires to the ECU just means an S-AFC or similar was used in japan

>> true. Not sure why the ECU has been opened though (and it definitely has been) - seems strange to me.

Your car could be running lean in the top end as the fuel pump isnt upto the task.

Quite a common problem in all skylines.

I'd change the fuel pump.

Dont expect resetting the ECU to make a really big difference as it doesnt

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