Stagea 5000km Service

[qikstagea]

just thinking (off topic-esque question)

but could it be a problem with my AFM thats causing it to run funny?

Its getting annoying. Hasnt stalled yet, but it does drop right down.

[beastien]

just thinking (off topic-esque question)

but could it be a problem with my AFM thats causing it to run funny?

Its getting annoying. Hasnt stalled yet, but it does drop right down.

I had the same problem, and I checked alot of things, but the most probable is a vacuum leak, check your crankcase breather hoses on the tappet cover (mine were hard and split) and all other vacuum hoses for leaks. Also possibly a dirty idle air control valve, there's a thread somewhere on how to clean it, don't ask me where, it's been a while.

[66yostagea]

Hi,

Am doing full service and timing belt (thanks to SK for his great thread)

Have surfed all the sites on service but can't seem to find a list of the quantity of oils required. Is there one? Also what oil is used in the transfer case? Is it the same as the diffs?

When I got the S1 it had three books with it.

Nissan Ux052-16900

19507P02

Unfortunately they are in Japanese. They are like the the Service Logs

and Information Manuals you get with any new vehicle.

The other is a very basic Owners Manual for a Nissan Stagea. It is copryright by ADR Automotive Engineering P/L 2006. Publication number

OMC34 Vs 2.10 02/06. It has alist of maintenance Intervals, but not much else. Book was given to me by Iamshe.

[mike40sydney]

mmmmmm i think i upset the guy at the mobil servo when i put the 5 litre oil on the counter for the service and he said that will be $82 and i said gee thats not bad especially seing you guys are going to do the service and new filter for that price mmmmm if looks could kill furk it ill go for the valvoline synthetic at under 1/2 theprice lmao

[stasis]

mmmmmm i think i upset the guy at the mobil servo when i put the 5 litre oil on the counter for the service and he said that will be $82 and i said gee thats not bad especially seing you guys are going to do the service and new filter for that price mmmmm if looks could kill furk it ill go for the valvoline synthetic at under 1/2 theprice lmao

Did you get Mobil 1? $82?! Thats abit dear which viscocity did you get?

[leetom]

my last 2 oil changes i used motul turbo light, not sure how it stacks up against top of the range oils but its about half the price and apparently its pretty popular in japan

[stasis]

my last 2 oil changes i used motul turbo light, not sure how it stacks up against top of the range oils but its about half the price and apparently its pretty popular in japan

How much did you get your motul for? Wat specs? Curious to know. I mean mobil 1 for $82/5ltr is a bit dear. Probably i can get it a few bucks cheaper.

[leetom]

hi yudy, cost is about $45-50 bucks for 5ltrs specs are 10w40, as you probably already know its French and if i remember going back awhile [without searching for it SK reckons its alright] other specs acea a3/b3 api sl/cf?? cheers leetom

[stasis]

hi yudy, cost is about $45-50 bucks for 5ltrs specs are 10w40, as you probably already know its French and if i remember going back awhile [without searching for it SK reckons its alright] other specs acea a3/b3 api sl/cf?? cheers leetom

Hi Lee, thats pretty good price for a 5 ltrs ones. Is it synthetic? Where di you get it from? My bro said that Motul are damn expensive thats why hes switching back to Mobil1. let me know. Theres another oil that im in interested Amsoil which costs about $75/5ltr. So....

[leetom]

Hi Lee, thats pretty good price for a 5 ltrs ones. Is it synthetic? Where di you get it from? My bro said that Motul are damn expensive thats why hes switching back to Mobil1. let me know. Theres another oil that im in interested Amsoil which costs about $75/5ltr. So....

yeh its synthetic, they call it technosynthese [that has to be worth a few xtra bucks], ive been getting it from autobarn at south tweed,they are good guys there and have some good specials ...not bad for a'barn

[stasis]

ohh ok i will check my local autobarn and compare. COs the last time i checked the Castraol edge was about $72/5ltr. But i will double check again.

[Appealing]

Just a word on Mobil 1. About 15 years ago I used to work for a Shell distributor. We had access to the laboratory, and did some test stuff now and again. We used to do it mainly for large truck fleets, so that they woudl know how the oils were lasting, and if they needed to change their service schedules. It woudl give the solids and other stuff in the oils and general break down of the oil, as well as a summary.

I once put some Mobil 1 in for testing after 10,000km. The lab report was that the oil was as new, and didn't need changing. It convinced me. Only trouble is, keeping it in the engine, it sure finds it's way out easy. (It has low viscosity). As long as your gaskets are fine it's great but if you have a small leak with "normal" oil, expect a much bigger one with Mobil 1. Good shit though!

Incidentally they also (Shell) once did a test on a Cummins Deisel, they stretched the servicing to about 25,000 km and ran the engine to destruction (oh to have that much money). The engine lasted 600,000 and then they worked out that the repair bills were just about double what the extra servicing would have cost at 10,000 km. Also a regularly serviced deisel of this size is expected to do over a 1,500,000 km. The end result was a massive saving in money and less time out of action. They did it to proove that regular servicing is better.

[stasis]

Just a word on Mobil 1. About 15 years ago I used to work for a Shell distributor. We had access to the laboratory, and did some test stuff now and again. We used to do it mainly for large truck fleets, so that they woudl know how the oils were lasting, and if they needed to change their service schedules. It woudl give the solids and other stuff in the oils and general break down of the oil, as well as a summary.

I once put some Mobil 1 in for testing after 10,000km. The lab report was that the oil was as new, and didn't need changing. It convinced me. Only trouble is, keeping it in the engine, it sure finds it's way out easy. (It has low viscosity). As long as your gaskets are fine it's great but if you have a small leak with "normal" oil, expect a much bigger one with Mobil 1. Good shit though!

Incidentally they also (Shell) once did a test on a Cummins Deisel, they stretched the servicing to about 25,000 km and ran the engine to destruction (oh to have that much money). The engine lasted 600,000 and then they worked out that the repair bills were just about double what the extra servicing would have cost at 10,000 km. Also a regularly serviced deisel of this size is expected to do over a 1,500,000 km. The end result was a massive saving in money and less time out of action. They did it to proove that regular servicing is better.

Cool. there you guy on mobil 1. Yea i noticed that Mobil1 will beed topping up only like probably abit only. Its just under the full on the oild dip stick for every 5000km.

[KiwiRS4T]

As the sticker says cambelt should be done at 100,000 km you can be sure they will last at least that long (unlike some other brands which have to be done at 70k or 80k).

Oil brands tend to generate some debate. I had a look on the internet at "engine oil comparisons" and there are about 12 million posts. However there is a great source of objective infromation at:

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf It is very long (177 pages) but you will know a lot more about oil at the end. The author concludes that synthetics are much superior to petroleum based oils and recommends oils with a track record such as (but not limited to) Amsoil, Redline or Mobil 1. Apperently the early synthetics (1970's) were hard on seals but this is not now the case. However he urges caution with changing late in life (Stageas are nealy all 10 years old now) as there is a possibility that seals damaged by years of petroleum based oils but sealed with gunk could start to leak when the engine is flushed out and synthetics are used. I plan to make the change anyway so I will let you know if my 1977 car starts leaking oil! He asserts that synthetics are good for up to four times the km of petroleum based oils but even if you change half as often that will ease the expense of the better oil.

[Shopping Trolley]

great info in this thread guys. I took a 100 000km cambelt to 150 000km in a mitsi with no drama thanks to leaving it to family members while overseas!

Yeah oils do vary greatly and different engines seem to prefer different oils. A certain major brand once caused my oil pressure gauge to show low pressure on a near brand new motorbike at about 20 000km after changing brands. Changed it out to different brand and prob fixed! That Mobil must be the good stuff tho, even the top of the line Motorcycle version of Mobil 1 full synthetic was awesome and i used to be able to get it wholesale too.

Think first oil change will be done early, god knows what the card yard put in the motor and trans when they "serviced" it. Its still looking clean 2000km later but is that good or bad after reading the above posts.

Also re the extended service destruction test above, the truck i drive now has a very long service interval which causes problems with oil consumption. After many tests and recording this and that they have decided its just the oil getting dirty due to the longer service interval (25000km) Apparently clean oil doesnt burn but as soon as it gets dirty enough it burns easy, which makes sense as about 20000km after evry oil change it mysteriously starts drinking oil.

[_Ryan_]

sorry for being a girl but I need to know a bit more about this sump plug washer?? Where can I get one?

AW12 for future reference. Grab a bag, change em every service.

I use Fuchs(always used Penrite in my datto), and the oil is coming out better and better after coming out black for a while... it defiantly removes carbon deposits. Fuchs is Mobil 1, just without the mark-up!

-Ryan

[Jezboosted]

I run Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 @ $80/5ltrs from Repco Nerang and run it for 10,000k. That comes up every 2.5-3months.

I did the full readup on the oil forum setup here and asked a few questions. Because I am mainly hway driving 10,000k on quality oil is ok.

Unless you guys thrash the tits off ya motors day in day out, save money by buying a good quality fully synthetic oil, and put ya changes back up to the factory 10,000k.

My 2c (starts putting on flame retardant suit)

[iamhe77]

I run Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 @ $80/5ltrs from Repco Nerang and run it for 10,000k. That comes up every 2.5-3months.

I did the full readup on the oil forum setup here and asked a few questions. Because I am mainly hway driving 10,000k on quality oil is ok.

Unless you guys thrash the tits off ya motors day in day out, save money by buying a good quality fully synthetic oil, and put ya changes back up to the factory 10,000k.

My 2c (starts putting on flame retardant suit)

Backs up Jezboosted.

No flame retardant suit necessary.

300V Chrono & K&N, Veruspeed or Amsoil filter every 10,000kms.

[Hanso]

How much oil do I need to put in the engine when I change the oil? I bought Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40.

I have a Series 2 C34 Stagea with an RB25DET NEO engine.

I remember my S13 used to take about 3.7 litres, so I guessing it is probably around over the 4 litre mark?

[zei20l]

well, compared to a VQ25, it takes 5L. its entirely possible RBs use even more than that!