Stagea 5000km Service

[iamhe77]

how so?

if you buy oil for power, it's probably the best test you're gonna get. i personally buy oil for the protective qualities, not power, but we're all different.

To perform a "test" like this properly, they should have started with their "power" test, but not vary the distance of the fan from the car.

Then they should have run the engines for 100,000km's, torn them down to see what the component wear was like and what condition the oil was in.

Does that answer your question?

How else would you compare the quality of an oil?

btw, I use Motul 300v in my Stagea, but I use the Nulon 10W40 in my wife's car and before you give me that "Fanboy" crap, I want the Nulon to be a superior oil.

I want to buy Australian made (and I want to save $100 on oil each service)

Yes, the Nulon made a massive difference in my wife's car (a Magna, if you must know), and I will be trying it in my Stagea for my next service (as I have tried ALOT of other high quality oils).

I just cannot see how this is a valid test for oil. Testing different fuels? Yes, this would be a valid test, but oil?

... and if you are going to test for power, for god sake keep the fan in the same spot!

(for those who missed it, check how close the fan is to the Evo for the Nulon run)

Edited August 10, 2009 by iamhe77

[zei20l]

i have to admit my SR20 sounded much beter with the nulon, and being that they were around the corner from my old work, we got wholesale rates right from the warehouse. also, they couldnt have been nicer and done more for us.....

even just using the engine oil additive (with another brand oil) made the engine so much quieter. also +1 for thei manual gearbox additive. i had problems getting it into 6th gear when the gearbox wasnt up to temp. this 'fixed' the problem and also made it run cooler!! i guess being that it reduces friction. maybe ill try their automatic transmission additive too?

personally im a big fan of nulons products (i use their engine oil flush every change) so im with cam and i would love their stuff to be better........

[pyro-ns]

To perform a "test" like this properly, they should have started with their "power" test, but not vary the distance of the fan from the car.

Then they should have run the engines for 100,000km's, torn them down to see what the component wear was like and what condition the oil was in.

Does that answer your question?

How else would you compare the quality of an oil?

btw, I use Motul 300v in my Stagea, but I use the Nulon 10W40 in my wife's car and before you give me that "Fanboy" crap, I want the Nulon to be a superior oil.

I want to buy Australian made (and I want to save $100 on oil each service)

Yes, the Nulon made a massive difference in my wife's car (a Magna, if you must know), and I will be trying it in my Stagea for my next service (as I have tried ALOT of other high quality oils).

I just cannot see how this is a valid test for oil. Testing different fuels? Yes, this would be a valid test, but oil?

... and if you are going to test for power, for god sake keep the fan in the same spot!

(for those who missed it, check how close the fan is to the Evo for the Nulon run)

haha, steady on mate, i'm not trying to start shit.

but tbh, it doesn't really answer my question. this was a "power" test for fresh oil in a 4 cylinder turbo engine and a 8 cylinder na engine. it wasn't a "power after 5000km of running" test, or an "evo vs hsv" test, or a "how well will this oil protect my engine" test either. sure the fan was closer to the evo, but the type of car is largely irrespective. the fan was not moved between oil changes, which is the main point.

[iamhe77]

haha, steady on mate, i'm not trying to start shit.

but tbh, it doesn't really answer my question. this was a "power" test for fresh oil in a 4 cylinder turbo engine and a 8 cylinder na engine. it wasn't a "power after 5000km of running" test, or an "evo vs hsv" test, or a "how well will this oil protect my engine" test either. sure the fan was closer to the evo, but the type of car is largely irrespective. the fan was not moved between oil changes, which is the main point.

Who's starting anything?

You wanted to know "how so?", so I gave you my opinion on what would be included in a valid, relevant oil test.

I understand where you are coming from, but since the engine oil is the main lubricant and protector, I can't see how a simple "power test" can be a measure of how good an oil is.

What I was pointing to with the fan is that in the EVO vid, you will notice that the fan is very close to the grill, as opposed to the other oil runs where the fan is a fair bit further away from the EVO. (Not talking about the HSV test).

If you are a workshop that is going to do an "unbiased" test of how much power a car can get from certain engine oils, at least make it a test without manipulation.

Edited August 10, 2009 by iamhe77

[zei20l]

to be honest they wanted a REAL test of engine oils, the engines wouldnt even be in a car, they would be operating at the perfect temp in a lab, breathing in the prefect temperature air with perfect humidity etc. and they would be checked by and engine dyno. there are too many variables while the engine is in a car. like air change, heat soak, like cam said, the position of the fan could affect it!

[GTR91]

I don't know what you guy are on about, but if you want The Best! look no further.

[zei20l]

lol 'natural' oil haha

would you put that in your diesel stagea??

[sturb25]

OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHH Yeah.

you should have seen it ! very very black and very gluggy.............. changed right on time. Theres no way Id allow oils to sit in a Rb engine for 10000kms now, no way. 5000km oil changes for sure.

Hay brendan

I thought id put in my 2 bobs worth.... Definately right 5000km is the go, not 10000kms. Rb engines have a realy small pick up in the sump so it gets cloged realy easily and thats the last thing you want with an rb. I always replace my filter every 5000 with the oil change. for 8-10 bucks its not realy going to break the budget. I run genuine nissan 7.5/30w, its pretty thin when cold and hot. Thats what you want with a high reving turbo rb. Its the same oil as they come out with from the factory so its been designed to run with nissan engines. One added bonus to its only $40. I Recomend it!!!!!!

Over and out

Stu

[Shopping Trolley]

Oil change done. Posting this for newbies like me as its damn near impossible to easily spot the location of filter without removing the under tray first. Replaced dealers 10-40 Elf junk oil with Castrol Edge 5-30 Synthetic and Nismo Filter, liked the claimed increase flow rates and longer filter life specs etc and i'm planning on longer oil change intervals as my motor wont be getting thrashed much if at all. Covered the line near filter with tinfoil and oil change went very cleanly. Had car jacked up on RHS and axle stands for safety and able to do filter by hand lying on back from under front bumper without too much drama or difficulty. Replaced sump washer with nissan standard aluminium 12mm sump washer $2. And you guys are right about it taking 5 Litres!

VQ25DD vq25dd vq25 oil filter location oil change M35 Nissan vq engine oil Stagea 250RS

[zei20l]

nice work thanks for the pics!

looks pretty easy. so the drain is on the drivers side? looks like there is heaps of clearance around the filter incase its a bitch to get off

[Shopping Trolley]

Yeah you would get a filter wrench on easy if you had too. The Z436 fitted the same tool as my Suzuki GSXR750 oil filter tool with the multi face nut bit around the top, cant think of proper name for that. Incidently the Nismo veruspeed filter body was slightly smaller outside dimension so i just did it up by hand 3/4 turn after o-ring contact. Someone else in an infiniti forum in USA mentioned this and it is about tight as you need and can manage by hand. Hardest part is taking of the dozen or so bolts that secure the skid gaurd undertray, well not hard just tiresome.

Yes filter and sump drain both on driver side of car (RHS)

Edited August 12, 2009 by Shopping Trolley

[zei20l]

shit yeah hand tight is probably too tight. i can usually get mine off by hand, but i cant say i had it easy after i took one of my cars to a workshop! i had to punch the filter with a screwdriver and get it off that way. some effing apprentice i guess.

[iamhe77]

Oil change done. Posting this for newbies like me as its damn near impossible to easily spot the location of filter without removing the under tray first. Replaced dealers 10-40 Elf junk oil with Castrol Edge 5-30 Synthetic and Nismo Filter, liked the claimed increase flow rates and longer filter life specs etc and i'm planning on longer oil change intervals as my motor wont be getting thrashed much if at all. Covered the line near filter with tinfoil and oil change went very cleanly. Had car jacked up on RHS and axle stands for safety and able to do filter by hand lying on back from under front bumper without too much drama or difficulty. Replaced sump washer with nissan standard aluminium 12mm sump washer $2. And you guys are right about it taking 5 Litres!

VQ25DD vq25dd vq25 oil filter location oil change M35 Nissan vq engine oil Stagea 250RS

+1 for the Veruspeed filter.

K&N also make a nice oil filter though.

Flow rates and filter life are great if you are moving your services out to 10,000kms (have not had a problem doing this... with a high quality oil)

Dunno about which ELF oil was in there, but their 100% Synthetic stuff is pretty good oil.

nice work thanks for the pics!

looks pretty easy. so the drain is on the drivers side? looks like there is heaps of clearance around the filter incase its a bitch to get off

You haven't done yours yet?

How long have you had your M35?

and yes, heaps of clearance to get a stubborn filter off

shit yeah hand tight is probably too tight. i can usually get mine off by hand, but i cant say i had it easy after i took one of my cars to a workshop! i had to punch the filter with a screwdriver and get it off that way. some effing apprentice i guess.

I don't think that it is only the apprentices that do it.

Mechs generally over tighten oil filters... and undertray bolts (2 sheared)... and damage wheels... etc

[zei20l]

yeah i guess so, nah i havent done a service since i had it. the dealer did one for free to be 'nice' to me and keep me happy because of the problems i had with the car - that still arent fixed.

and yeah, Elf oil is probably one of the best brands around!! i wouldnt be calling it junk lol

anyway, the factory quotes 10,000km services on our cars correct? so why is everyone doing them every 5,000? because the import dealer says so? thats how they make a little more money.

engines these days are designed to last longer between services, subaru have been doing 12,500 for years, and my little fiat will go 15,000 between services. its just money making for import dealers. plus its bad for the environment.........

[andy65b]

Yeah you would get a filter wrench on easy if you had too. The Z436 fitted the same tool as my Suzuki GSXR750 oil filter tool with the multi face nut bit around the top, cant think of proper name for that. Incidently the Nismo veruspeed filter body was slightly smaller outside dimension so i just did it up by hand 3/4 turn after o-ring contact. Someone else in an infiniti forum in USA mentioned this and it is about tight as you need and can manage by hand. Hardest part is taking of the dozen or so bolts that secure the skid gaurd undertray, well not hard just tiresome.

Yes filter and sump drain both on driver side of car (RHS)

That picture of the filter is in a different spot on my car.

Am I correct in guessing that yours is not the VQ25DET motor?

On the VQ25DET the oil filter faces forward (around the same location) and sits above the sway bar. You have to be careful not to drip too much oil on the sway bar.

[andy65b]

anyway, the factory quotes 10,000km services on our cars correct? so why is everyone doing them every 5,000? because the import dealer says so? thats how they make a little more money.

I am doing my oil change every 5-7000 km. Mainly because I think it is better for the turbo and from what I have seen of most failed turbo's it seems to relate to the friction that develops at the bearing.

[zei20l]

i thought so!!

he said it was a VQ25DD, which would mean our motor is only similar to that.

wow i gotta jack my car up and take some detailed pics of under there!

[iamhe77]

I am doing my oil change every 5-7000 km. Mainly because I think it is better for the turbo and from what I have seen of most failed turbo's it seems to relate to the friction that develops at the bearing.

I was changing oil every 5,000kms before mine let go... with some very expensive oil too!

I did read on an auction sheet for a "Nismo" NM35 that the turbo was replaced under factory warranty 1 year ago... so maybe there was some kind of recall in the original turbo's?

i thought so!!

he said it was a VQ25DD, which would mean our motor is only similar to that.

wow i gotta jack my car up and take some detailed pics of under there!

Similar spot. Driver's side. Still enough leverage room.

[Shopping Trolley]

According to window sticker this is what dealer had put in there when they "serviced" it.

elf Super Sporti XP 15W-40 "high performance" mineral oil, excuse my tyoe earlier i mistakenly wrote 10-40

[Shopping Trolley]

CASTROL EDGE SPORT 5W-30

HALF PRICE AT SUPERCHEAPAUTO NZ STORES!

ONLY $29.97 FOR 5LITRE PACK, JUST CLEANED OUT MY LOCAL STORE, NOW HAVE SEVERAL YEARS SUPPLY STOCKPILED tALKING TO staff member there, reckons they make quite a few mistakes like this, the other viscosities are discounted too but not this much!