Jump to content
SAU Community

How to polish engine

MRK25T

By MRK25T,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

MRK25T Experienced

MRK25T

Posted
Posted

I've got some free time on my hands so i've decided to start polishing my engine.

Today after reading another thread where Doctor mentioned using 1200 grade sandpaper I went out today and bought some.

Are there any suggestions/tips/warnings before I start?

What else do I need to make it shiny (and stay shiny)?

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites
CMS Drifter Experienced

CMS Drifter

Posted
Posted

When using the sandpaper on aluminium, use crc or kerosene, it will lubricate the paper giving a better finish. Then polish sanded surface with autosol, meguiars aluminium polish, or similar.

Only use the sandpaper on rough surfaces. some surfaces will polish up with just autosol or similar.

If the surface is really rough, get a coarser grade sandpaper and still use crc or kero, then work up to the finer grades.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Doctor Mentor

Doctor

Posted
Posted

Hahahahahahaha have fun mate.

After you have used Autosol use Autoglym. It is a bit finer than Autosol and gives a better finish.

Problem is when a bit of water gets on it, you have to give it a bit of a polish but hell its worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Say for your intake manifold, can you make that nice and chrome looking with the above method? As standard, its fairly rough and dull - but can you get it up to a fine shine without electroplating or whatever other methods?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

I used a special metal polishing drill attachement (~$30) It comes with course and smooth compound polish - THe polish look a bit like a small bar of soap - You use the drill attachements to smear a whack of compund on before going to your cam covers - It's a bit of elbow grease - but far easier than wet & dry....

You can also use steel wool and autosol. But the drill attachements and compound are the best way to go.

You can get these at Auto-One, Harware house, etc.

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MRK25T Experienced

MRK25T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I never got a good look at your engine Brendan. The first time was at Chatswood when you took me for a ride on the cruise, and the 2nd time was australia day when it was too damn hot to look at/remember anything.

Take a pic with your new camera and email it to me:

[email protected]

Doc: I only saw yours briefly about 6 months ago at burger King. Have you got a better pic of it than that original one you've already posted?

If I loose my patience with sandpaper i'll cheat and use Brendan's drill attachment trick.

Thank you.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Doctor Mentor

Doctor

Posted
Posted

Yeah use paint stripper first then you use the drill bits as Brendan suggested then use a bit of light sandpaper then the polish.

I'm not at home at the moment but I will post pics tomorrow evening.

The plenum can be polished to a mirror finish but you need to sand the bastard alot to get that finish. I did my inlet pipe and it took a while to get it like a mirror but it looks pretty good though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • PranK
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • joshuaho96
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
    • defari
      Destiny 2

      By defari · Posted

      DCS, war thunder, IL2 - mostly flight sim games.
×
×
  • Create New...