Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R34 GTT, and i was trying to unplug one of the boost lines so i could plug in the T piece and one of the plugs snapped, its attached to something labled 'turbo gauge' (i think) which goes to electronic plug.

cable is found right near the firewall, center of the car, just behind the factory strut brace.

basically, one of the tubes coming from just before the TB, it goes into a big round circle, red + black, then went into the plug i broke, then to an electronic sensor..which would go back to the ECU somewhere i think...

ill put up pics when i get home, car drives fine... boost gauge still works fine. just wanting to know if i should get it replaced or not to worry.

thanks for any usefull advice in advance :devil:

mebroke.JPG

Edited by illusiVe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112605-what-did-i-break-s/
Share on other sites

yer thats what i thought... at first i thought ooo sheez.. cause it was only 1 day old to me... but took it for a boost around, still drives exactly the same, it might have a secondary which it uses elsewhere in the engine bay..

ill post up a pic to make sure we are thinkin about the same item.

wierd....I thought what adam thought. the gauge runs of the sender on the firewall. the input to the sender is the boost line.

If that boost line is split you should be getting eleventy billion pounds of boost. if the electric plug is broken you should be getting no reading?

got a pic?

ya,, the r34's have a map sensor,,, its on a bracket off the firewall

located

i think u've broken the map sensor plug,, this sends boost pressure signal to the ECU. I have seen an r34 which had the Map sensor vacuum hose removed,dunno how it affected the performance or fuel economy,(but its probably best to get it fixed, since u want ur ecu to be reading correct boost pressure)

i've highlighted the map sensor in blue

post-3252-1144373729.jpg

post-3252-1144373938.jpg

Same thing happened to when I was changing my plugs. Didnt notice it was there and snapped it when removing bits and pieces to get to the plugs.

With it broken, there was no effect on performance or anything, I didnt notice any strange in the car either.

Only thing was that the engine light came up because I disconnected the plug. But if you connect it and just leave the nozzle unattached, I think its fine.

You can try getting some liquid nails and gluing it back on, thats what I did. Worked a treat for me, but I ended up finding a GTT wreck and replaced mine in the end anyways.

A new sensor from Nissan will cost you apprx $150, well that was the quote I was given.

I know a few guys who have blocked off the hole that the hose from the MAP sensor would lead to, and some guys just leave it. No problems reported frmo them yet.

I used araldite, that glue that comes in 2 parts that you mix

dries up clear, and dries as pretty hard plastic, just get it all around the nozzle and the outside, cake it on

might be useful as hot glue guns arent that strong

just be careful and try not to get glue inside the hose

have showed the factory boost sensor and its vacuum hose (coloured red)

i suggest u replace this vacuum hose coz it will be old and hard (it might be a bit hard to remove from the sensor and off the manifold (don't break sensor plug also,, haha),,,, i replaced mine,coz it was all hard and old (even though it only had 20K kms on it,,, took hose to autobarn and they matched one up for me,,, like $5 or something,,

ask them to give u a tee piece to suit ,,,

:)

post-3252-1144394998.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
×
×
  • Create New...