Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R34 GTT, and i was trying to unplug one of the boost lines so i could plug in the T piece and one of the plugs snapped, its attached to something labled 'turbo gauge' (i think) which goes to electronic plug.

cable is found right near the firewall, center of the car, just behind the factory strut brace.

basically, one of the tubes coming from just before the TB, it goes into a big round circle, red + black, then went into the plug i broke, then to an electronic sensor..which would go back to the ECU somewhere i think...

ill put up pics when i get home, car drives fine... boost gauge still works fine. just wanting to know if i should get it replaced or not to worry.

thanks for any usefull advice in advance :devil:

mebroke.JPG

Edited by illusiVe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112605-what-did-i-break-s/
Share on other sites

yer thats what i thought... at first i thought ooo sheez.. cause it was only 1 day old to me... but took it for a boost around, still drives exactly the same, it might have a secondary which it uses elsewhere in the engine bay..

ill post up a pic to make sure we are thinkin about the same item.

wierd....I thought what adam thought. the gauge runs of the sender on the firewall. the input to the sender is the boost line.

If that boost line is split you should be getting eleventy billion pounds of boost. if the electric plug is broken you should be getting no reading?

got a pic?

ya,, the r34's have a map sensor,,, its on a bracket off the firewall

located

i think u've broken the map sensor plug,, this sends boost pressure signal to the ECU. I have seen an r34 which had the Map sensor vacuum hose removed,dunno how it affected the performance or fuel economy,(but its probably best to get it fixed, since u want ur ecu to be reading correct boost pressure)

i've highlighted the map sensor in blue

post-3252-1144373729.jpg

post-3252-1144373938.jpg

Same thing happened to when I was changing my plugs. Didnt notice it was there and snapped it when removing bits and pieces to get to the plugs.

With it broken, there was no effect on performance or anything, I didnt notice any strange in the car either.

Only thing was that the engine light came up because I disconnected the plug. But if you connect it and just leave the nozzle unattached, I think its fine.

You can try getting some liquid nails and gluing it back on, thats what I did. Worked a treat for me, but I ended up finding a GTT wreck and replaced mine in the end anyways.

A new sensor from Nissan will cost you apprx $150, well that was the quote I was given.

I know a few guys who have blocked off the hole that the hose from the MAP sensor would lead to, and some guys just leave it. No problems reported frmo them yet.

I used araldite, that glue that comes in 2 parts that you mix

dries up clear, and dries as pretty hard plastic, just get it all around the nozzle and the outside, cake it on

might be useful as hot glue guns arent that strong

just be careful and try not to get glue inside the hose

have showed the factory boost sensor and its vacuum hose (coloured red)

i suggest u replace this vacuum hose coz it will be old and hard (it might be a bit hard to remove from the sensor and off the manifold (don't break sensor plug also,, haha),,,, i replaced mine,coz it was all hard and old (even though it only had 20K kms on it,,, took hose to autobarn and they matched one up for me,,, like $5 or something,,

ask them to give u a tee piece to suit ,,,

:)

post-3252-1144394998.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...