Gtr Intercoolers? Trust? Just Jap?..........

[Blitz]

Generally with the generic copies, some modification is require to fit. On the other hand, the more expensive JDM ones usually fit absolutely perfectly with little or no modification needed.

Incorrect.

Unless you buy one of the few smaller designed Japanese units ie the 76mm ARC, there is always some element of trimming to be done.

Most of the typical GTR replacements ie the Trust 115mm unit require significant trimming due to the increase in core thickness over standard.

Unless you a) need to b) plan on using an intercooler with a significantly thicker core than the factory intercooler, changing it isnt worthwhile.

[Interloper]

Are you basing your opinion on facts? Have you seen flow test data comparisons between the two?

Zoom magazine has tested the stock gtr cooler and found it is very good compared to trust etc, and only needs to be changed when chasing well over 300rwkw. I can't remember which issue that was, but in terms of cooling the intake charge it was pretty good.

[Blitz]

Zoom magazine has tested the stock gtr cooler and found it is very good compared to trust etc, and only needs to be changed when chasing well over 300rwkw. I can't remember which issue that was, but in terms of cooling the intake charge it was pretty good.

Yes, the efficiency of the factory GTR cooler is a well known fact - proven repeatedly on cars running well over 300kw at the wheels.

You cant compare the factory intercooler to the Trust item, the trust is an upgrade and allows for greater flow, but up to a point, the factory intercooler will do the job just fine.

That aside, I was actually asking Paul if he has any proven flow data on the capabilities of the intercooler that Just Jap sells, as I believe in terms of flow you will find it in the same league as the likes of the Trust upgrade.

I dont see the sense of slagging a product unless we have real data to compare

[BOOSTD]

undoubtedly, i don't think anyone can argue that.

I would disagree, The core on the Just jap cooler looks very good. It uses the same type internal fin structure as the GTR trust items. On the exterior the tubes taper to a finer point rather than a blunt rounded edge to encourage more airflow through the core which is a very good design on a thick core which suffer from starving the radiator from air flow. Very similar to ARC intecooler design. The exterior fins are also fluted to increase cooling.

[Lunatikk]

I know of at least 1 genuine 10-sec GTR that is still running the std factory Intercooler so maybe there's beter places to spend your $$$

[BOOSTD]

I know of at least 1 genuine 10-sec GTR that is still running the std factory Intercooler so maybe there's beter places to spend your $$$

I bet it runs NOS, only way to over come the flow restriction

[paulr33]

and what makes u think its a restriction?

[BOOSTD]

i've seen a R34 with stock SMIC make 278rwkw with NOS lol.....u get the picture

[paulr33]

and what does that tell you ?

[paulr33]

nos has completely different properties to standard oxygen combustion. i find the example pointless and bears no relevance. i still think over 300rwkw you would struggle to point out the major differences between the stock OEM core and a $2500 trust unit.

does it cool the intake charge %60 better?

does it flow %60 more air

[GTR 94]

hmm good to see this topic has had some intrest, and i still havent been convinced either way i dont really care about a few mods to get it in we are looking for efficancy and least amount of pressure drop, and for those of you who must know YES the car will be making over 300AWKW!

[paulr33]

but is 300awkw beyond the limits of the stock unit? surely you could spend the $2500 one something else, even if its a $1000 unit. spend the money on suspension, brakes, cams, oil cooler, tyres, tuffening the 4wd system, head work, cold air intake etc...

i just think for your goal (which youve only really stated now) that the stock item will be fine and for the cost theres probably minimal gains (per cost anyway)

[itbmils]

OK

I have an R32 GTR with ~300awkw (297awkw if you must know) - and I still have the std FMIC – no problems so far – not even in the middle of the Queensland summer (obvious sledge opportunity for those on the forum not blessed enough to live in the sunshine state )

Now - I ?may? be missing something here

BUT

I am considering an upgrade to the std FMIC mainly so I can make the SAME power safer

As with all upgrades, it needs to be considered carefully (end to end). So if I do upgrade - I'll be looking at something like .......

RB25 AFMs x 2

Apexi suction kit to suit ( get rid of those rubber hoses)

new FMIC - at least 100mm thick

either a full silicon or alloy hard pipe kit (steel is too heavy)

I would not expect any of these mods to realise more power - but they may allow me to ramp boost a little thus giving more awkw – but that's more of a side effect really IMHO

I would NOT consider the cheaper FMIC units (at ALL), mainly because as someone who KNOWS first hand what it takes (READ: COSTS) to build a reliable 300kw GTR – I would not risk all that to an unknown (untested/cheap) FMIC.

I have also herd that the std GTR FMICs are very good, and that the R34 is better than the R33 which is better than the R32, so a cheap upgrade for me may be simply to get hold of an R34 FMIC.

As I mentioned – I've herd some very good things about the guys at ARE so I'd be happy to pay the $3K required to supply and fit a complete custom kit. Either that or I'd be looking at something from Apexi / Trust or similar – but the cost for the FMIC and the Apexi pipe kit would cost the same even from Nengun.

Just my 2c worth – happy to have my opinion modified accordingly

[paulr33]

but isnt dialing in more boost only useful if your are in the effiency zone of the turbocharger? what turbo's are u using? it would be pointless to dial in more boost if its beyond the effiency zone as youll just dial in more heat.

[itbmils]

but isnt dialing in more boost only useful if your are in the effiency zone of the turbocharger? what turbo's are u using? it would be pointless to dial in more boost if its beyond the effiency zone as youll just dial in more heat.

I have series 3 R34 N1s - with the .48 housing – they came off an R34 V-Spec II.

I'm currently running 1.2 bar – which is the the ZONE for these turbos AFAIK

I'd like to get to 1.4 bar - but my air temps are on the limit already I think. So this sort of confirms that 300awkw is about the limit for the std R32 FMIC

I see up to 80 degrees @ the plenum at times (this is the reading from my PFC hand controller anyway)- but temps do drop back down once I get on the peddle - so I know the FMIC is still working

I guess what I'm saying is that I'm not keen on dialing in more boost (which I understand these turbos can deal with) until I get a bigger FMIC and get my charge temps under control.

Until then - 297awkw will have to do

I could always do injectors and cams instead I suppose

Edited April 14, 2006 by itbmils

[paulr33]

right so do you think the high inlet temp is coming from the lack of the FMIC doing its job or the turbochargers being on their limits?

the stock air temp on the hand controller is coming from the plenum so its likely to be picking up the heat of the metal around it, you should check out the airtemp in and out of the intercooler as its likely to be much different.

[itbmils]

right so do you think the high inlet temp is coming from the lack of the FMIC doing its job or the turbochargers being on their limits?

probably a bit of both

I'm told that 18psi is their peak efficiency - but that they can push to 21psi with the appropiate support

the stock air temp on the hand controller is coming from the plenum so its likely to be picking up the heat of the metal around it, you should check out the airtemp in and out of the intercooler as its likely to be much different.

so - how do I do that - the only temp I can see from the PFC is from th plenum - it's all relaticve anyway - right ?

[paulr33]

well yes its all relative, but if you are basing the stock intercooler efficency off the stock air temp sensor then its probably not giving you all the facts. record in and out temp on the stock cooler and then see if you think its effiicient or not.

i would love to see the before and after temps in the stock FMIC core

[itbmils]

well yes its all relative, but if you are basing the stock intercooler efficency off the stock air temp sensor then its probably not giving you all the facts. record in and out temp on the stock cooler and then see if you think its effiicient or not.

i would love to see the before and after temps in the stock FMIC core

well - give me some idea how to do this - and I'll do it

will it require a trip to Jaycar

[paulr33]

just need to mount temp sensors at the in and out pipes at the fmic.

i have the required bits at home ready to do it, just never got around to doing it. mine is a serial port datalogger with upto 4 sensor support. the sensors are normal transistors with 3 wires, so they can be mounted anywhere