Jump to content
SAU Community

Sh1t! What Has Gone Wrong

SIR-JD

By SIR-JD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SIR-JD Rising Star

SIR-JD

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

Story goes.... came around a corner, punched it up a hill all the way till third all was fine. until i tried to accelerate in 5th, the car would not go into boost at all. then when i got home i was under the hood having a look and giving it a few revs listening for noises. then all of a sudden a loud knocking was coming from the engine. the knocking gets faster as i rev it harder?

what is it guys? and can anyone recommend someone i can take it to from melb????/ i am in se suburbs.

regards, jonathan

the car is an r32 with a rb25det conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112757-sh1t-what-has-gone-wrong/
Share on other sites
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

I'd avoid turning over the running gear at all until you're at a mechanic. If it is, as suggested, a bearing. You want to minimise damage to otrher components. See if you can get a tow to a nearby mechanic and good luck.

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

racv roadside assist time...

like actiondan said, you want to minimise damage, work out what workshop you are eventually going to get to rebuild the motor and tow it there.

I've had friends who have driven home on a blown motor before (big end bearing from memory) from calder, but an sr20det which we blew last week (same problem as yours) we tried to drive home and it kept getting worse until we had to pull over.

It depends on if you wanna get a whole new bottom end or rebuild your one.

Having said all that, it may not be a bearing, but from what you describe this is most likely what's happened.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

hey,

i had a similar problem, mine was a ticking/knocking sound as i rev the engine it would get faster also.

i take it to my mech and it happen to be that that the gasket of the manifold and slip off (like half of it was over the hole) and that was making the sound. my friend also had a similar problem and it was also the gasket.

i've been told its a common problem in r33

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

loose or missing bolts on the turbo can cause this as well.

get in there, take the heat shield off and have a good look.

no boost is an issue though.. check the wastegate actuator arm while your there.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

a gasket wont block the exhaust, they are not being enough... but it would still make boost.

Honestly it sounds like you should go to a mechanic even for piece of mind.

Look in the sticky threads in the VIC Section for workshop details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...