Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now, this is the first engine i've pulled apart so sorry if this is a bit of a newb question.

Refer to pictures, I'm wondering if this carbon buildup on the valves and top of cylinder is normal? (piston surfaces are like this also) I remember helping my dad rebuild a motor years ago, and it was nowhere near this bad. I'm trying to diagnose a possible problem with this rb20det I bought (it apparently had a misfire, but they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it).

Anyway, is this sort of carbon buildup a bad thing? The spark plugs were in similar shape, isn't this ment to mean it was running fairly rich?

head1.jpg

head2.jpg

anyway. like i said i don't really have a clue, but i'd like to have a rough idea of what's going on before i drop it off at the engine builder.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112769-carbon-deposits-on-head-normal/
Share on other sites

hmm the RB30E i just pulled apart was like that, and mad flakes of it on the pistons

my RB25DET was heaps cleaner when i had the head off that, same with the pistons.. pretty much just discolouration not a coating like that.

that engine wasnt DRIVEN like it should have been, carbon builds up when you drive like grandma and dont give the old girl a good flogging once in a while.

when i pulled my head off my block nary a spec of carbon in the head and only a thin coat on the pistons, went well and never had a problem before i blew it.

proly misfired due to the massive ammounts of carbon buildup, hot spots and dieseling occur.

Edited by carl h

I recently had 2 heads off an RB30e, one was on gas and perfectly clean, the other was rather dirty and on fuel, no where near as bad as that though.

Shall be interesting to see how the head on mine looks after almost 40,000km's. I drive it like a grandma 90% of the time.

Way to rich mixtures, nothing more, nothing less. (what caused the excessively rich mixtures would be the real question)

You can get upper cylinder lube/cleaner or carbon clean in a bottle you spray into the inlet manifold and it cleans the piston tops, valves etc, without having to remove the cylinder head.

Water also does a good job, but you have to be very careful, if you don't know what your doing as you can hydro lock it.

You don't want all the carbon in the combustion chamber at all as it can get rather thick in places and cause hot spots that glow and cause the engine to detonate.

You don't usually see modern engines in a state like that, because the ecu's control the injection so precisely.

But you get a backyard racer boys that fiddles with oxygen sensors, fuel pressure regs, injectors etc, without having a clue, you can get the above effect.

My guess would be a f**ked 02 sensor.

no way in hell a farked o2 sensor would do that, i didnt run an o2 on my car and had no problem with it.

im gonna guess perhaps bad gas and granny driving did that, but like i said eariler (and this applies to most if not all nissans) you have go give the girl a bit of a go once in a while to keep her happy.

intersting...

thanks for the replies, I don't know much about the dude who I bought the motor from, but i believe it was running an aftermarket turbo and higher than stock boost ~180-200kw or so from memory.

No idea if he granny drove it, I'll be curious to see what the head from the rb20det in my car looks like when i eventually blow it and have to change it, because i don't daily drive it, it's a dedicated drift car.

what would be the best course of action to reco the head?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...