Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

wonder if anyone could shed some light on this

i was gonna get a gtr front bar on my gtst r32

the gtr bar would b aftermarket that would fit a gtst but would the brackets on the inside need to b changed coz of the different shape or would it bolt on in the existing places?

if anyone has done anything similar or knows sum1 who has let me know how it went .

cheers

ps while where on the topic, how hard would it b to fil a r33 gtr bar on a r32

i think we've all seen it done but with how much difficulty?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11303-r32-gtr-front-bar-on-gtst/
Share on other sites

I was thinking about doin' this too, but with a R32 GTR bar for my GTS4.

Cos I need room for a intercooler but the standard one on now doesn't have a intake hole big enough for a core size around 600x300x80. Besides the bar isn't very well attatched, quite flimsy I might say.

I have a genuine GTR front bumper on my GTSt. How do i know? Well its a nissan stamped, PLASTIC bumper in the original 2 piece configuration that came on the GTR only. I also have the aluminium bonnet :P

It does fit well, and by the looks of things it doesnt look too difficult to do. The guards might be wider on the GTR, except they start and finish in the same place... they just bulge out more along the way.

A mechanic friend of mine whos had his R32 GTSt for years didnt think the original GTR bumpers fitted either until he saw mine.

Red17

I believe the GTR bars are roughly a couple of cm's wider either side. I have a gtr copy bar sitting @ home which i was going to put on my gts-t, but haven't yet.

I don't believe it is a major job. However i've seen a gts-t with a gtr front that fitted well one side, but had about a 5cm gap on the other side.

The way i see it is the guards on both cars must come back to roughly the same point in regards to the join of bar & guard.

You may be able to just bend/cut back etc the bar into the brackets or you may need to cut out a section in the middle and fibreglass/plastic weld it back together.

I would like to know 4 sure myself....

a friend of mine resparyed a gtst purple

and he had all genuine gtr front bar and quarters and bonnet, which in turn he had to change blinkers and bonnet latch.

i would like to c what the support behing the gtr's front bar looks like, from just looking at each of the bars it looks like the support of the gtst sticks out to much and that it would have to b cut or removed to put a gtr front on.

anyone seen the support b4 on either a gtr or gtst with gtr bar?

Be sure to buy an original GTR bar, ie plastic NOT FIBREGLASS.

The plastic can bend and be made to fit a lot easier then the stiff fibreglass can.

My GTR bar was made for a GTSt, or so wac the claim, and went nowhere near like fitting. Trust me and several people including a reputable body shop said too hard (ie too expensive)

So moral of my tale, original Plastic bar fits easier, wont crack when rubbing speed humps, or get an exchange/money back guarantee that the GTR come GTSt fibregalss bar will fit your car.

i just purchased the 2nd hand gtr front bar for my gtst, it is fibreglass unfortunatly. althought for $80 i think its a bargan.

i know for sure it will fit on a gtst coz thats what car it was on when i bought it. its made in japan, sum JBO brand, seems a lil thin, but will do seem like it will fit except for those rectangle holes on either side of the no. plate (dont know if they got a name). 1 bad thing bout the bar is that its cracked in several places but is easily fixed. i was quoted round $400 for everything to b done, cracks, painted, fitted, and a lil damage to my car bcoz of a lil bump. to me this price seems fair, if anyone thinks not let me know so i dont step in anything.

  • 1 year later...

I have a genuine GTR front bar on my 32 GTST and the fit isn't snug but it is the toughest bar ever! Plastic takes a hell of a beating on anything the concrete decides to throw at it -cept wildlife....My only complaint is the plastic lip doesn't hold up against curbs or speedbumps or steep driveways! Be warned as i think replacement genuine lips aren't cheap (who am i kidding...what Skyline stuff is????)

PS: The genuine bars make the GTST look a little wider from front views...very tough and cool!

  • 2 weeks later...

The plastic original gtr bars will fit straight onto the gtst's. You just have to attach the bar at the corners(ie blinkers) and then affix the bar from there. I have an original vspec2 gtr bar on mine. everybody and there dog said it would not fit. It would need so much modifiying it would not be funny, so, i gave it a go, and wallah.. fits like a glove with nmo mods.. i wonder where they go the idea from?

The bar sits natural with the gaurds. Sits level, doesnt bow out of shpe of the gaurds, sits level with the headlights.. Just like a bought one for the gtst. The bar is back of it again ready to be painted, and my cooler fitted. Thats why i bought the bar in the first place. I bought the bar of a user on this forum, who has a skyline too. I dotn have a digi cam.. but when i get access and the bar is on, i will take pics and post em up.

I've got an original gtr bar on my 32gtst and it fits nicely all I had to do was cut two slits in the bumper support and fold back the metal where the number plate notch is to stop the bar from sticking out. This is the only mod required. Trust me it has to be done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...