Jump to content
SAU Community

Megasquirt ECU ,anyone?


DavidU
 Share

Recommended Posts

A few of the Z guy's are building the Megasquirt programable ECU.The kit cost's about $250 and uses a manifold vac transducer and O2 . Suitable for turbo,and N/A. Used with an aussie O2 wide band kit will give you a variable AF ratio of between 14.7 and 12.5 (power) and is VERY accurate and fast V sig out to the ECU. Any one game?

I work in electronics and I want to give it a go soon.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thing will give you almost total control of your A/F R. Click the link below to see the variable prossessor functions.It will give real time screen shot out's and VERY accurate O2 reading's fast. No obstructional AFM's of MAF sensors. Have a lap top next to you and adjust it all on the fly in incements of 100,(very easy to read.) They will have an exhaust Ironisation feed back loop that will feed an ignition ECU as well.Perfect ignition timing alway's.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirtpc.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a piggy back unit.It's stand alone. The Motoola prosessor has a bus speed of 8 meg,not like most that quote the xtal frequency witch is devided by 4 to get the real bus freq. It has 64 point VE table ( not 8),and is writen in Direct assenbly code which will be good to 16,000 rpm. It will drive suplimentary relay control to 500ma.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

Edited by fr0st
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon).

Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel.

I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics.

Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too.

EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

awesome mate was gonna use ms on my 32 as well, only problem being how to modify the cas???? been looking for info for ages but no luck. not sure what trigger wheel to use at all??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page.

You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS.

Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

awesome thanks mate. this whole thing is going to be a big learning curve for me but im looking forward to it. is there anything else ill need to look at doing to run it for both ign and fuel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it.

To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction.

If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay.

Read up at www.msextra.com

It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well :miner:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
Sorry to bring up an old post but I found it with google. Check out this guys youtube clips on megasquirt. Also has some other kick vids http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=turbo280z

My friend has MS'd his porsche 924 and I am about todo my rb20det powered 260z. Nothing like learning!!!

I've managed to get MSII working with EDIS 6 on R33 GTR...I bought the board from the US...sourced the parts

here here through Jaycar etc...and the hard to find ones here: http://pjoz.com/electronics.htm#msquirt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
    • I installed it all myself,  It was really easy to install.  I got a professional to do the degas/gas.
×
×
  • Create New...