Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

After some advice on turbo setups for R33 GTS-T Series II. Will be chasing around 220-250rwKW with more of a focus on torque than outright power. This car will be street driven and used on the track, so I need the car to be very responsive with a decent sized power band, cams will be used as well. Oh and of course a 3inch exhaust, would prefer a turbo to fit on standard exhaust manifold but I know this would limit me.

So hit me with some turbo (both standard and aftermarket manifolds) and cam (if required) setups :-)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113301-turbo-choice-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Check the RB25 turbo upgrade thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845

That said, a 2530 with cams might be nice or for a bit more power a GCG highflow then up to a HKS GT-RS.

Tomei Poncams are the easy option for an upgrade in that respect. Proven to work. I went for the 260degree type b.

Plenty of ppl will tell you different things, most of it will all be base don their own personal experience.

My only 2c will be where possible try and make sure the turbo you use is ball bearing and uses the std manifold, as it saves you haveing to spend a lot of time and money trying to make custom heat shields and insulate the engine bay ancillaries from all the heat the turbo will throw out when you are at the track

For a good cheep alternative, i would go for a KKR-430 or 480, both good for well over 430hp. and they are only $800, recived a great review in thelates ZOOM magazine.

Plus the $500 of fitting, and the cost of the "special" dump pipe they require as its not a direct bolt on upgrade

All of a sudden a dirty cheap $800 turbo is now costing upwards of $1500

for a non-ball bearing unit, thats an poor upgrade cost.

Not to mention the poor wheel choice which makes them about as responsive as a GT42.. but make well under half the power.

Shocking upgrade and wouldnt reccomend someone who is after proper performance.

I do believe the first line had "with more of a focus on torque "

Using a KKR turbo will not achieve this in any way.

Abo Bob hit it on the head

2530 with cams might be nice or for a bit more power a GCG highflow

cheers

A 2530 isnt all that different to the std turbo. (yes i know it will make a bit more power, and probably come on a little harder then std as well...but in the world of turbo upgrades it is pretty close to what the std turbo will do)

Thats not to say its a bad choice. Just that i would perhaps think twice about throwing $900 cams at en engine using a turbo as small as the 2530.

That said a friends R33 use to use a 2530, it had baby cams and a greddy manifold and it was still the best, and probably one of the quickest street cars i have been in...it was also damn quick as the track the couple fo times he was good enough to swap keys with me.

Im putting on a hiflow turbo, with a 270 thrust bearing

plain bearing turbo, might be bush

i have 201rwkw on standard turbo, exhaust split dump, hiflow cat

boost controller, FMIC and apexi power fc

i still doubt its tuned properly yet, set on 12 psi

will be whackin boost up to 15 should see 215rwkw

Also puttin on walbro fuel pump

i have a z32 afm, but have been told i dont require it for what i have.

just i was interested in doing track work aswell occassionally

so i'll see how i go.

Seriously do those hks cam gears make a difference and are they worth it?

Im putting on a hiflow turbo, with a 270 thrust bearing

plain bearing turbo, might be bush

Any more info on where this turbo came from? Id say think twice about it, as only havign a 270deg bearing will surely make it even more unreliable when you start increasing the shaft speed and going to the track...is it even water cooled?

I think if upgrading a turbo it is nice to try and get ball bearing, but i wouldnt be too concerned if its not. But i would want to at least make sure it has 360 thrust bearings for durability. I know my turbo has now done about 30,000kms on the street with about 1200-1500kms on the track (10-14 track days) and last time i had it off to change a gasket it still appeared to be ok with regards to shaft/nearign float. Just keep the good supply of cool oil to it i suppose

thats why i'll be upping the boost with the hiflow turbo , not the stock

the hiflow r33 turbo, is water and oil cooled.

the turbo has just recently been rebalanced, and two thrust washes, put in, for less movement, or slippage i guess?

And i believe theres a oil restrictor on the turbo somewhere, which can be removed?? to allow more oil to flow through, hopefully to make it cooler.

I'll see how it goes, but having done that, doesnt bother me if it blows up, i just like the fact it can be rebuilt for like another 200 bucks

then have the choice puttin a 360 thrust bearing in, if it doesnt work out.

r33 turbos apperantly stock are ball bearing

Someone had done a plain bearing job on my hiflow. (cheaper)

Longer spool time, more heat, But also needing more oil to cool down the temperature. Depends also what boost your running

but i have heard it would be a good idea to remove the oil restrictor.

But with what im running, and not running 15psi 24-7, i shouldnt have to replace the insides soon.

But i think its fair to say, if it does blow, i will know how long it lasts

what boost not to run, and not to put a 270 thrust bearing in again.

Also id rather pay the $375 for a rebuild then buying a whole new turbo, or rebuild with ball bearing.

With what im doing, i should be right, mostly street use, occassional track day, and have a crack at drifting, haha! why not.

I wasn't planning for it becoming an experiment, but if it blows, she blows.

Sorry for interrupting the thread, but was just saying that i was doing a hiflow turbo in mine.

and i'll let ya know how it plans out. And if im going to be 375 bucks out of pocket . also power output and response.

I`m running the smaller of the bosch pumps, a 934 or something or other. 14.5lb boost.Stock air box but cold air feed into snorkel and k&n filter panel.Injectors are 20% larger and flowed to within 1% of each other.Only tuned over full power map and couple of light load areas.Fuel consumption is around 400ks per tank even with a couple of squirts.

HKS 25235 on an RB25 is fantasic... on the street it pulls hard with stuff all lag and on the track it was great as well, even on my low boost setting a few 'exotic' cars couldnt keep up down the straight..

and fuel efficiency is pretty good as well.. i dont have cams either, just all the fuel supporting mods..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...