Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, I am looking at upgrading my stock turbo on my R32 GTS-t cheaply!

I have looked at R33 turbos but I am considering a Toyota CT26 from an SW20 MR2 or M70 Supra.

The reason being from what I am aware of, it will give me more power than the RB25 turbo. (Rated at about 330hp I believe) which should get me to my 200rwkw benchmark with little to no lag!! I think I should be safe running 15-17PSI.

Anybody done it before or can anyone shed some light on the subject?

P.S my other mods are...

DR DRIFT REMAPPED / DYNO TUNED ECU

3" EXHAUST WITH DUMP

POD AIR FILTER

BOSCH 040 FUEL PUMP

GIZMO ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER

TOP MOUNT TURBO MANIFOLD

GTR INJECTORS

Z32 (300ZX) AIR FLOW METER

Thanks in advance for any input!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113342-ct26-turbo-upgrade-on-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

To much messing around to do the swap.

If you want a really CHEAP upgrade, Get the exhaust housing of a VG30DET turbo and put it on your RB25 turbo.

that will allow you to get to 200~210rwkw.

Cheers.

VG30det turbos are getting hard to come by. ring EKW in melbourne they may be able to help.

The housing will bolt to your turbo and dump with ZERO mods and will make full boost 200 rpm later than your current RB25 turbo.

Don't boost it past 14psi tho... ceramic bomb

sounds like HEAPS of stuffing around TODD, bear in mind these turbos are as old if not older than the RB25 turbo and most likey would require a rebuild. They wouldn't be a bolt up affair either id imagine....

you might find a few highflowed rb20/25 turbos in the FS section fairly cheap.... me personally i wouldn't skimp on such an important part of the engine, especially if you want to make more power.

when looking for bolt-on cheap upgrades, as a rule of thumb, its usually safest to try to stick with the same make, and even more so with the same engine series

eg turbo upgrade for gtr is s15 turbo

turbo upgrade for r32 is r33 turbo

brake upgrade for s13 is r32 brakes

etc. etc.

I don't think CT26's are easy to find either. I rebuilt mine on my 3SGTE ($700). It was my first turbo and I must say it is a bad introduction, its huge compared to other 2L turbo sized turbos, I was expecting to see another big bad boy on the SR, but no.

Stay away from the vg turbo. it will probably make the power but it is fairly laggy due to the large exhaust housing.

Why are you running a highmount manifold with a stock turbo? Sounds like a fair bit of work for little to no gain?

Id save a bit more and get a new garrett turbo or a high flowed rb25 (theres one for sale for about 1100 atm in the private sales section).

If you really want to swap it now, the best compromise will be an rb25 turbo. It'll almost make 200 and retain reasonable response.

Please don't go the vg30det turbo on the rb20det.

The VG30DET is exactly the same as a RB20DET turbo apart from the turbine housing and comp cover. So its not an upgrade. Well it may be if you've been unlucky enough to snag an rb20det with an old series 1 rb20det turbo, the R32 series 2 turbo's are slightly larger and make more power.

You are MUCH MUCH better off and WILL make more power with an rb25det turbo.

If it were myself, I would grab the R33 Series 2 turbo and bolt it on, spool nice and quick.

I've ran a vg30det turbo on my rb20det some time ago, it came off the next week end as I was completely dissapointed with its street performance.

People say but the rb20det turbo feels as if its asthmatic at high rpm; I say load of crap, get the rb20det turbo holding boost (actuator mods or a GOOD variable duty cycle EBC (AVCR, Blitz SBC-iD etc)) and they pull nicely to 7000rpm and will easily rev to 7500rpm in the first 2 gears without feeling as if power drops off.

Why not save and look at something like this?

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod176.htm

Bolt up isn't an issue as thats what adaptor plates are for. :P

OK, so the VG turbo isn't a worthwhle option! However either is a $1000+ turbo for me!

Surly there is a good, cheap, second-hand obtainable turbo that is capable of 200rwkw!!

Dr Drift suggested a T70... might look at one of those!

Everyone has their opinion and I am happy to hear them but I don't really dig hear-say. If you have done it then you are able to bag it out (like cubes - thanks for your input) otherwise don't bother...

Saying this, Dr Drift said to me the XSPOWER T70 (this particular model) has proven to be a good quality and good value upgrade! For $600 ish, I think it would be good... reasonably laggy but not too bad and would make the power I want!

Please remember peak power doesn't make a car quick.

With the T70 you may make over 200rwkw but then comes along an R32 with a S2 R33 or even better an R34 turbo making a solid 190rwkw and wipes you clean.

Go an R34 GTT turbo if you want to get damn close to that 200rwkw or if your happy to trade a couple of kw's for ever so slightly quicker spool go the R33 Series 2 turbo.

Its interesting dr drift says the XSPOWER T70 turbo's are a good turbo, they have been nothing but trouble for the calaisturbo boys. :bomb_ie:

Apparently the XSPOWER are cheap crap where as the MASTERPOWER are better. But still cheap :happy:

Its interesting dr drift says the XSPOWER T70 turbo's are a good turbo, they have been nothing but trouble for the calaisturbo boys. :bomb_ie:

Don't get me wrong I don't think he believes they are 'good' turbos but they are good for the money and compared to others he has had personal experence with, they have been of a higher quality! - I don't want to speak for him when I know so little on the subject but I can only relay what I understand he said.

So what would I be looking at for an R33 series 2 turbo? And how do I tell the difference between that and a series one? Also, how much would I expect to get an R34 turbo for? And what kind of power could I get from either of them??

Damn, choices choices...

Thanks for your help!

They generally pull around 190rwkw on 14psi with a tuned ecu, nice exhaust and fmic.

For all out top end power the best choice is the R34 GTT Turbo, this runs the light weight comp wheel that aids spool and it also runs the same VG30 OP6 sized turbine housing.

The R33 Series 2 turbo runs the light weight comp wheel as the R34 turbo does to aid spool, it uses the smaller turbine housing that also improves spool, as a result this turbo is the most reponsive and quick spooling.

The R33 Series 1 turbo runs the small turbine housing as the R33 S2 turbo, this aids spool over the R34 turbo BUT the r33 S1 turbo also runs the heavier metal comp wheel that increases spool and decreases response.

Myself.. I would go the R33 S2 turbo on the RB20DET, push it to 14psi and be happy with a nice responsive 190rwkw.

If lag and lack of urge down low didn't bother me then I would go the R34 GTT turbo.

In the past I've seen R34 turbo's go for $600, R33 turbo's go for $400.

Another influencing factor why I would choose the R33 S2 turbo, they are cheaper. :bomb_ie:

These prices do make the XSPOWER look attractive, before making the jump seriously consider the lag and lack of response.

A good way to feel what a larger turbo would be like on the rb20det is to pull off the turbo's heat shield and disconnect the actuators arm that connects to the wastegate. Take it for a spin and have a good think if you don't mind having almost no go until 4500rpm+ or when ever the XSPOWER turbo comes on strong.

Cubes is right. RB25 turbo FTW!. I have one on my RB20 and it makes 196rwkw and isnt too laggy. It's the best cheap upgrade for sure.

is that a series 1 or 2 r33 turbo? Is there a big difference between them- ie. how much power could you push out of the series 1 compared to series 2?

Thanks guys! I love it when people spell it out rather than just saying go an R33 turbo, I never realised there was so much potential and difference betweek and r32 turbo!

Edited by CATKICKER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...