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So now that my front end is in bits and im half way thru installing my new remote filler and cooler, my neighbour decides to come on over and throw mud.

What is the correct method of installation.

I say from the outlet of the block to the cooler... then from cooler to inlet of remote filler... then from remote filler outlet back to inlet port of the block.

he says i should plumb the remote filler before the cooler???

Any help that can be given is appreciated as my car is in bits and i need to get to work tommorrow, and dont want to reassemble the bits until cooler is completely plumbed up!!!!

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i just fitted my hks remote filter cooler kit yesterday, and i was pondering the same question, lol . but anyway in the end i found out on the back of the kit it got directions of oil flows and it goes , engine outlet ---> remote filter ---->cooler--->remote filter--->

engine. hope that helps.

Hang on have a read again for me. My remote filler only has an inlet and outlet, obviously the cooler is the same, one inlet, one outlet.

So i can only go from the block outlet to the cooler inlet, cooler outlet to remote filler inlet, remote filler outlet to block inlet.

I suspect you have thrown in an extra remote filler, uless because the HKS one has the relief valves and thermo it has 4 ports

some remote filter mounts have 2 and some have 4 ports. It really dosent matter where you put the cooler. I set mine up engine - filter - cooler - engine. But it could go either way i dont see why it would matter.

If the filter has 4 ports then the cooler runs both hoses to the filter and the engine has both hoses going to the filter. This way the oil dosent have to pass through the cooler though so i run it in a loop so the oil has to go through it.

Mine I ran - engine to filter, filter to cooler, cooler to engine. I was told this is the best way to do it.

As for particles of steel going into the engine, it is vitally important that you get all of that shit out of the hoses before any attempt of installation is attempted - the element in your oil filter is only paper, and a small bit of steel at 40 odd psi of oil pressure will go straight through it and around your engine until it lodges in a bearing somewere. Flush all of the hoses out, and give them a blast with compressed air to dislodge any shit.

Take your time, and it should work out well. Also I was told to keep your oil level a little bit higher as well, once the cooler etc is full of oil

Hi guys, I have always done it pump > filter > cooler > engine. Otherwise the cooler fills up with the crap from the engine that the filter is there to remove.

Hope that makes sense

PS; thorough cleaning of the the lines, mounts and cooler is essential. I even tape up the openings while fitting the various bits, otherwise stuff gets in.

Hi Peewee, I'm confused, you are more concerned with the fines from the cooler getting to the engine? If you clean the cooler properly first there is no chance of this happening. At worst this is a tempory problem that goes away once the engine has been run for a while.

On the other hand there is no way you can stop the carbon and other stuff from the engine getting stuck in the cooler unles you put the filter between the engine and the cooler. This is not a temporary problem, it goes on until the cooler gets so full of stuff that it blocks the oil flow.

I would much rather take the action to prevent a temporary problem (clean out the cooler) that create a long term one trying to avoid it.

Hope that makes sense.

Guest Peewee

yeh but id rather get and oil cooler full of shit than a fin in the engine you don't relise those coolers arn't perfect they do break and **** up especially with high temps and also i hope theres nothing big enough floating round your engine oil to block up your cooler if there is lack of oil pressure is the least of your worries

Hi Guys, I have been working on race cars with oil coolers for more than 20 years and I have never seen or heard of an oil cooler failing internally. Maybe that’s because we only use good quality ones. I have seen them fail externally with corrosion much the same as a water radiator. Internally with a nice oil coating and no air or other corrosive contaminants, I don’t think so.

On cooling and loss of velocity (what happens inside the cooler) the oil will give up the crap previously held in suspension. This is a certainty.

I don’t know why anyone would go for a possibility (a remote one at that) of internal failure when faced with the certainty of crap clogging the cooler, slowing down the heat transfer and eventually blocking the oil flow itself.

Hi Peewee, I am standing in front of a GRM built VT Commodore V8 Supercar with my back to an ex-works BMW Supertourer and both of them have filter before cooler. Admittedly they are both multi stage, dry sump but the principle is the same.

Hope that adds further to the discussion.

GRM Commodore...YUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMY!!!!

:D What do they know about buidling a race car, V8s are dinosaurs;)

Thanks for the help people. Ill go next door and eat humble pie, me idiot, interior trimmer neighbour = expert:mad:

Cooler will now go in this sunday, meaning Wakefield on Saturday with no cooler:(

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