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Which Engine Oil ?

Mid_Nite_R33

By Mid_Nite_R33,
in General Maintenance

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Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

Hi guys I thought I should add a story that I have

Recently my car started losing oil pressure, It was fine on cold start but as you drove around the pressure dropped to almost nothing and I was using a heap of oil as well, I was thinking the worst, till I read TO4GTRs thread about keeping that RB alive.

I had Motul 10w40 turbo light in the car and as the temperature built the oil simply couldnt cope and broke down becoming too thin for the pump to push properly

I changed to penrite 5w60 and problem solved so thnaks to dave for pointing me in the right direction, the penrite is about $20 cheaper too!

  • 4 years later...
Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

What are peoples thoughts on PENRITE 5w60 Fully Syn?

I just ordered mine $120 for 5L. Guy at Supercheap showed me this:

http://royalpurple.com.au/article_images/oil_test_article.pdf?ptl=hot_rod_article.php?ptl=articles_oil_supplement.php

PDF file showing a test run by a magazine. Unsure whether to believe it or not(could be a big marketing ploy). Motul didnt do too well in that test, and neither did Mobil/Elf..

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

For anyone wanting more info it's all covered in the oils sticky whistling.gif

I used motul 8100 xcess, and loved it, until sougi s6000 came into my life. But that's dead and gone now sadly. The nulon "fully synth" was pretty good for a grade 3, cost a bit though when 4100 turbolight is cheaper.

Not sure if it's the same for gtr's, I'd imagine it is, but 10w40 is usually about right for aussie conditions with the normal number of kms on it.

There are a few conditions that have to be met by the viscosity of the oil, and it's all compromises:

-On start up it has to be thin enough to be pumped quickly to moving parts, yet thick enough to provide decent protection when there.

-You want it to be thick to provide decent protection for valves and cylinders, but thin enough to drain from the head to the sump properly.

They're the two big ones. 10w40 is usually accepted to be adequate for australia. The original nissan oil was 7.5w30, but many kms have been done since then and, more importantly, the weather conditions are different here.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

How about Penrite Sin 5 (5W-60)?

I have a standard R32 GT-R, probably has like 120,000 km

Nissan recommend 7.5W - 30 in their books.

+ the R32 being engineered in the late 80's to early mid 90's, it would most probably be a Mineral Based engine oil.

I have used:

- Martini Racing 10W - 40, Full Synthetic = Very nice!

- Valvoline 20W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Bit too "thick" and car ran sluggish.

- Shell 15W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Was ok for the first 1000 kms then turn to shit.

- Mobil Synthetic S 10W - 40 (2000 X 2) Semi Synthetic = Best so far from what I have used and just before an oil change the car still runs well, once changed = Very smooth.

My mechanic has recommended Mobil Synthetic S and the car is running fine.

I think the Mobil has the closest viscosity to what the R32 GTR should run, but everyone has their own personal preference and recommendations.

Different cars will have different recommendations + if you car is modified (Mild to Heavy) and having internal mods done, you'd run a Full Synthetic as the engine will have different tolerances to stock and lightly modified cars.

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just changed my oil today. Oil pressure on cold start up is down to around 5bar(7bar before). I used to run Elf fully sun 15w50(I think). Im also using a Veruspeed Nismo filter as well.

I noticed the engine was more responsive. I guess I'll keep an eye on it.

EDIT - I used Penrite 5w60 Fully syn oil. Bloody exp - $130/5L.

Edited by Ultimategtr

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