Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Engine Oil ?

Mid_Nite_R33

By Mid_Nite_R33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)

What do you guys pay for oil?

I used to use Mobil 1 and a bottle of that cost around $65. I've been put on to a full synthetic oil, Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10W-30 and it costs $36. I thought, heck it costs almost half the price of mobil 1 and its fully synthetic, so why not....

There's a bloke in my area that runs the same stuff in his stock car...

Edited by KeyMakeR33
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

insu Rising Star

insu

Posted
Posted

The recommended nissan oil is in fact as semi-synthetic, not fully syn.

I use motul 8100 xcess in my car (R33 GTST 166RWKW)

I find it very good value for money.

If I wasn't using this oil, i'd probably go for the Mobil 1.

IMHO these oils are very similar in specs, prices and reviews.

I seem to have a weird loyalty to motul though! I run motul, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid and coolant.

At least you know its all quality!

(Not nessecarily the cheapest way to go though)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

Castrol edge sport (Grey) 10-60 fully synthetic x1 change

Before that penzoil 15-60 semi synthetic x2 changes

Before that shell helix super 10-50 x1 change

Before that royal purple done with tune x1 change

Before that ??????????????????? <<Was b4 i owned the car.

All done in a space of 24,000

I didnt like the shell,The royal purple was good,penzoil was good.The Castrol edge sport (grey) is great.

I will be using the castrol sport again.it has an oil cooler as well,so it needed a bit extra oil.They didnt at the time sell 1L bottles of the sport version so i had to buy another 5L of it.

The price is up there with mobil 1.but still not as expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
boostin_r33 Collaborator

boostin_r33

Posted
Posted

The best engine oil that I personally use whould be penrite Synthetic 5 its been proven to have the least engine wear out of all other oils including shell,motul and etc its a 5litre bottle and worth from $80 to $90 it would be perfect for your skyline

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bilbo117 Rising Star

bilbo117

Posted
Posted

hey guys.

I have repeatedly used 10w-40 penzoil in my car but I can no longer source it. I live in tropical queensland, and because I have absolutely no idea about oils, im wondering what I should now put in it. After reading through here, many people seem to be using 5w-30, 10w-60 etc.

Is it ok to change to this? Ive always looked for a 10w-40 blend as someone mentioned it was what nissan recommended for there motors after a couple of years.

I give my car a bit sometimes, and I always allow for proper warm-up.

So with this in mind, Can anyone recommend a decent mobil or castrol etc alternative to the penzoil I used to use?

Should I Just for out the money for motul 300V 10w-40?

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dizmo Enthusiast

Dizmo

Posted
Posted

i did an oil change and i put in Motul 10W-40 Turbolight. Doesnt take long to warm up so i just drive it straight away with no boost. It's still clean and done 600km's. Oil is oil really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
0w-30! dude he said he's in tropical queensland, even nissan doesn't recommend such a thin oil..

Right on there!

Nissan's own oil is 7.5W - ???

Not sure what high end it is, but not lower than 7.5.

The American Zed guys recommend Mobil 1 10W-30, so that's where I'm going. It's $70/80.00 ~ 5L

They consider anything heavier than 40 grade to be GLUE!

The best part about the Mobil product is it's availability, it can be got at just about any Mobil service station if in trouble needing it a bit urgently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
skylinegirl Community Regular

skylinegirl

Posted
Posted
You can choose:

Motul 4100 Turbolight 20W50,5l(thicker oil)

Motul 4100 Turbolight 10W40,5l

Its great stuff, any import workshop would recommend it..

I think its priced about $45-50

As I mentioned before stick with Motul

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted (edited)
0w-30! dude he said he's in tropical queensland, even nissan doesn't recommend such a thin oil..

FYI 0w30 doesn't mean it's thinner than 10w30. It only mean that this oil can flow at certain temp below freezing, the 0w mean winter rating.

Motor oil

Use Module 3 calculator if you want to know your start-up viscosity at ambient temperature.

Viscosity calculator

Edited by Trex101
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
FYI 0w30 doesn't mean it's thinner than 10w30. It only mean that this oil can flow at certain temp below freezing, the 0w mean winter rating.

Motor oil

Use Module 3 calculator if you want to know your start-up viscosity at ambient temperature.

Viscosity calculator

Yeah! I usually use 5W~40 Havoline across our winter for the same reasons. And availability.

Availability is a BIG issue for me. They say all oils & particularly synthetic oils are compatible with mineral based oil, BUT they are not CONSISTENTLY compatible in my opinion.

Back in 1988 I took my family to EXPO in Brisbane, my car at the time was an auto Triumph 2500TC and I had all the lubricants changed to synthetic before we left. Engine Mobil 1 20W~50, Auto Amsoil auto fluid, Diff Mobil Syntech 80W~90, and Amsoil Synthetic wheel bearing grease in the bearings. I averaged nearly 40 m.p.g. (about 8L/100) in a 2.5L 6 cyl twin carburetted auto, for the trip up from Sydney and back to Nambucca, that's over 1000 miles (1600k) At Nambucca I had to top up the oil with a litre and the BEST oil I could find was Shell Ultra 20W~50 mineral based (non synthetic) and the trip from Nambucca back to Sydney, the arse fell out of the economy to about 30 m.p.g. and the ONLY change was the mixing of the 2 oils.

But correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't seen 0W~30 Mobil 1 on the shelf for some time, is there a chance it has been replaced with 10W~30 as it's in the same price bracket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yeah! I usually use 5W~40 Havoline across our winter for the same reasons. And availability.

Availability is a BIG issue for me. They say all oils & particularly synthetic oils are compatible with mineral based oil, BUT they are not CONSISTENTLY compatible in my opinion.

Back in 1988 I took my family to EXPO in Brisbane, my car at the time was an auto Triumph 2500TC and I had all the lubricants changed to synthetic before we left. Engine Mobil 1 20W~50, Auto Amsoil auto fluid, Diff Mobil Syntech 80W~90, and Amsoil Synthetic wheel bearing grease in the bearings. I averaged nearly 40 m.p.g. (about 8L/100) in a 2.5L 6 cyl twin carburetted auto, for the trip up from Sydney and back to Nambucca, that's over 1000 miles (1600k) At Nambucca I had to top up the oil with a litre and the BEST oil I could find was Shell Ultra 20W~50 mineral based (non synthetic) and the trip from Nambucca back to Sydney, the arse fell out of the economy to about 30 m.p.g. and the ONLY change was the mixing of the 2 oils.

But correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't seen 0W~30 Mobil 1 on the shelf for some time, is there a chance it has been replaced with 10W~30 as it's in the same price bracket.

No, M1 0w30 has not been supersede by M1 10w30. IMO The 10w30 will work great in your weather condition.

Edited by Trex101
Link to comment
Share on other sites
frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted

i found a special aussie brand( can not recall the name) at Autobarn the other day and its bloody cheap.

i was told this company sponsor a lot of doorslammers. i was looking at their full syn 10w-40, with ester, and 5L only cost around 45 bucks. apparently this oil should work as well as Motul 300V.Does anyone have any experience with them? do you guys think its all right to put it in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted
i found a special aussie brand( can not recall the name) at Autobarn the other day and its bloody cheap.

i was told this company sponsor a lot of doorslammers. i was looking at their full syn 10w-40, with ester, and 5L only cost around 45 bucks. apparently this oil should work as well as Motul 300V.Does anyone have any experience with them? do you guys think its all right to put it in?

Fuchs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • PranK
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • joshuaho96
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
    • defari
      Destiny 2

      By defari · Posted

      DCS, war thunder, IL2 - mostly flight sim games.
×
×
  • Create New...