Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys I thought I should add a story that I have

Recently my car started losing oil pressure, It was fine on cold start but as you drove around the pressure dropped to almost nothing and I was using a heap of oil as well, I was thinking the worst, till I read TO4GTRs thread about keeping that RB alive.

I had Motul 10w40 turbo light in the car and as the temperature built the oil simply couldnt cope and broke down becoming too thin for the pump to push properly

I changed to penrite 5w60 and problem solved so thnaks to dave for pointing me in the right direction, the penrite is about $20 cheaper too!

  • 4 years later...

What are peoples thoughts on PENRITE 5w60 Fully Syn?

I just ordered mine $120 for 5L. Guy at Supercheap showed me this:

http://royalpurple.com.au/article_images/oil_test_article.pdf?ptl=hot_rod_article.php?ptl=articles_oil_supplement.php

PDF file showing a test run by a magazine. Unsure whether to believe it or not(could be a big marketing ploy). Motul didnt do too well in that test, and neither did Mobil/Elf..

For anyone wanting more info it's all covered in the oils sticky whistling.gif

I used motul 8100 xcess, and loved it, until sougi s6000 came into my life. But that's dead and gone now sadly. The nulon "fully synth" was pretty good for a grade 3, cost a bit though when 4100 turbolight is cheaper.

Not sure if it's the same for gtr's, I'd imagine it is, but 10w40 is usually about right for aussie conditions with the normal number of kms on it.

There are a few conditions that have to be met by the viscosity of the oil, and it's all compromises:

-On start up it has to be thin enough to be pumped quickly to moving parts, yet thick enough to provide decent protection when there.

-You want it to be thick to provide decent protection for valves and cylinders, but thin enough to drain from the head to the sump properly.

They're the two big ones. 10w40 is usually accepted to be adequate for australia. The original nissan oil was 7.5w30, but many kms have been done since then and, more importantly, the weather conditions are different here.

How about Penrite Sin 5 (5W-60)?

I have a standard R32 GT-R, probably has like 120,000 km

Nissan recommend 7.5W - 30 in their books.

+ the R32 being engineered in the late 80's to early mid 90's, it would most probably be a Mineral Based engine oil.

I have used:

- Martini Racing 10W - 40, Full Synthetic = Very nice!

- Valvoline 20W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Bit too "thick" and car ran sluggish.

- Shell 15W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Was ok for the first 1000 kms then turn to shit.

- Mobil Synthetic S 10W - 40 (2000 X 2) Semi Synthetic = Best so far from what I have used and just before an oil change the car still runs well, once changed = Very smooth.

My mechanic has recommended Mobil Synthetic S and the car is running fine.

I think the Mobil has the closest viscosity to what the R32 GTR should run, but everyone has their own personal preference and recommendations.

Different cars will have different recommendations + if you car is modified (Mild to Heavy) and having internal mods done, you'd run a Full Synthetic as the engine will have different tolerances to stock and lightly modified cars.

Just changed my oil today. Oil pressure on cold start up is down to around 5bar(7bar before). I used to run Elf fully sun 15w50(I think). Im also using a Veruspeed Nismo filter as well.

I noticed the engine was more responsive. I guess I'll keep an eye on it.

EDIT - I used Penrite 5w60 Fully syn oil. Bloody exp - $130/5L.

Edited by Ultimategtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a way to adjust all of the pedals in an R32 GTS-T? they all sit even, but seem to be a little high for my liking.
    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
×
×
  • Create New...