Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CruiseLiner: Go the the Hi-Octance sump I was a bit worried about it until I dropped in and had a good look at it, you get:

Enlarged Sump

Tomei Baffle Kit

Windage tray

Pefect Welding

No clearance issues

If you add it up the Tomei sump will cost you similar money once it is all said and done.

Steve Maitland from Maitland performance fabricators is the man for your job as his done many and his local and his work is proven in Wa rally and race cars.

hey steve thats who made the current one i got and its great welding, and qaulity, just a bad design with only one side enlarged and trap doored plus the pickup has the cup thing around it too.

ill post a pic up tommorow when i get 5 min

I'm using a Performance Metalcraft sump 9L. It was recommended by SK and is enlarged on both left, right and front with no clearance issues. I also have the tomei restrictor in the head, a -10 return line from the back of the head to the sump. I am also using the Nismo Oil Pump but previously I was using the JUN oil pump. Both pumps are good.

The sump setup is shown on there website at:

http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

Dry sumps sounds like a great thing to do but most GTR's that race here only really use a tomei baffle kit, Jap brand oil pump, restrictor in the head and an extra 1 litre of oil all on a standard sump and no oil issues at all.

How about fitting an oil accumulator such as an acusump ?

That would offer some additional protection, without any disadvantages at a fraction of the cost of a full dry sump system. It will also keep oil pressure up to the turbos for a short time after the ignition is turned off.

I have never used one, but it may be worth thinking about.

anyone know some good designs? ive seen the hi octane ones, any other brands worth looking at? i dont want the trust one as its wayyyy too low for my liking.

thanks again everyone, awesome info :)

Brad

who said the trust one is 2 low heres a pic see the diff and the bottom of the sump arnt that far apart.

post-1964-1145232807.jpg

I tested my dry sump set up on a rb20 recently. Luckily the engine was free cuase its no longer with us, the drive setup was incorrect and it ran out of oil pressure, haha these things happen thats why they needed to be tested.

Dry sump on RB= experience!!!

To do the job you not only need the backing of good machinist for parts but dry sump experts, plus an rb expert. Its all anout knowledge to get the best results. If I were you I would talk to as many people as possible that have experience with dry sumps on chevs etc, then talk to people that know about the rb series oil system, then talk to people who have actually done it and ask there opinions!!! I would only recommend it for hardcore racing cars that dont see the street, but thats personal opinion!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...