Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This R32 Gtr At The Right Price?


Recommended Posts

It would need to be an exceptional car, no accident history etc of coarse!

I reckon a great 32 is still worth that, as I got that for mine and reckon I shoulda got more, as I had the sh*t5 at the time and sold it to the first guy that made an offer.

But there is just so many out there now, we picked up a REALLY nice one for a mate yesterday for 19G, no accidents, (perfect sills and everything) with a bit of gear (cooler/inject/N1's etc) just a little clear coming off on the rear spoiler. So, it would have to be a really good car to command that price.

Edited by Marlin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i thought r32 gtr Vspec II was only 94 model??

Well this model is a 93 model, mayb its the end of year one just b4 94.

When going to look at the car who should i get in contact with to get a pro's scan over of the car. Just in case i aint getting a Lemon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'd haggle the price down if u can, see whats been replaced and if they can prove it, i bought my 1993 gtr for 28g i payed to much 4 it i know wont b able to sell it 4 that price now,if u buy though dealer dont expect to sell around that price later,if ur interested mines 4 sale but it aint v spec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'd haggle the price down if u can, see whats been replaced and if they can prove it, i bought my 1993 gtr for 28g i payed to much 4 it i know wont b able to sell it 4 that price now,if u buy though dealer dont expect to sell around that price later,if ur interested mines 4 sale but it aint v spec

SO it worth the extra few $$$ to get the V-spec II, what are the advantages does it have over a regular GTR or v-spec I

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well he's selling this R33 GTR Vspec for 35,000 and it's got low km

http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/1668347.aspx

so yeah up to you i guess, but personally for a really good mint 32 GTR i wouldn't pay much more than 25,000.

personally i want the R32 shape (don't really like r33)

Should i just go into autostyle and tell them to find me one with all the goodies?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the owner of a V Spec R32.....

The R32 V Spec II was not released until Feb 1994 so something is suss there. Be aware it is common to practice find false claims on V Specs.

Even if it was a 'V Spec' I wouldn't bother with one unless it retained the original BBS rims, as this is one of the few 'trademark external features'

I beg to differ with the above advice...a comparable condition V Spec IS worth $10k more than a non-V Spec in the R32 series. However if your main purpose is power via major modifications then save the outlay expense and go the non V Spec option.

I believe a rare R32 V Spec or VSpec II will hold value propably better than any other GT-R.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the owner of a V Spec R32.....

The R32 V Spec II was not released until Feb 1994 so something is suss there. Be aware it is common to practice find false claims on V Specs.

Even if it was a 'V Spec' I wouldn't bother with one unless it retained the original BBS rims, as this is one of the few 'trademark external features'

I beg to differ with the above advice...a comparable condition V Spec IS worth $10k more than a non-V Spec in the R32 series. However if your main purpose is power via major modifications then save the outlay expense and go the non V Spec option.

I believe a rare R32 V Spec or VSpec II will hold value propably better than any other GT-R.

yea true did the v-specs come withe brembo's?

yea i was thinking that as you see the price differences on v-spec compared to non on the r34 gtrs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

V-Spec Factory Features over a standard GT-R

•17 inch Aluminium BBS mesh rims with 225/50 tyres

•Brembo brakes (four-piston) with ventilated 324mm discs up front and two-piston 300mm discs in the rear

•Firmer suspension setup (bilsten shocks)

•Electronically revised all-wheel-drive system (ATTESSA-PRO)

The ONLY difference between the V Spec and the V Spec II in a R32 is that;.

* V-spec II actually had slightly wider tyres at 245/45

* The V-spec II had a boot decal

Other stuff?

* Boot lip (under the wing) often seen in pictures,... yet mine dosn't appear to ever had one

* Also mine has no rear window wiper

Maybe optional from factory?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey,

Nobody seems to have mentioned that there were only ever 400 r32 gtr v-spec II's built. When you consider how many of them are probably scrapped or crashed, a genuine vspec II in good condition is quite a rare vehicle. A friend in japan saw one at a dealership recently with 18,000kms and even in japan it was selling for close to $40,000 AUS before onroad costs etc. Also as far as i know vspec II's were only built in 1994 as mentioned above.

I like the fact you only want to buy an r32 shape, the original godzilla is my favourite by far!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still don't think a v-spec or v-spec II is worth more than 10% more than a standard GTR, there's just not enough changed to command a premium. If it's an N1, I think thats a totally different story! I sold a mint genuine 32 N1 for over $50G a couple of years back, but I think that car wouldn't pull over 35G or so now? The real problem with gtr's is that mod parts are just so readily available and cheap now, that virtually anyone can go and mod one to be easily better than whatever the factory ever released, and taht takes the "exclusivity" factor away from them. It was a different story even just a few years ago, when everything was hard/expensive to get. That's why I think only cars that were genuinly built for some form of motorsport will be collectable given time (ie. N1), and only then if they're left standard.

Just my opnion.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...