Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my r33 does this as well....

could be driving around, and then at a set of lights just *off*, doesnt sputter just turns off as if someone removed the key..

ive had 2 mechanics look at it, both pointed finger at my turbosmart type2 bov that i put on it... saying vacuum leak

so to prove that theory we hooked it up a smoke machine and no leaks were found... plus the problem was there with the standard bov also.

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

before i tried nissan, went to another mechanic and it had him scratching head also... he increased the idle a bit, that helped a small bit , so now instead of dieing 8/10 times its 5/10 times...

im considering ringing up nissan tomorrow (brisbane) and asking them about it, and also how i can go about fixing my odometer that just stopped :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192462
Share on other sites

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

bullshit! read, we don't know what we're doing so therefore we'll just tell you some b.s. to get you off our backs. The ECU itself has its own diagnostic mode that they probably don't even know about.

Take it to somewhere that knows skylines, and most likely they'll be able to fix the problem in an hour or so.

hey dstylez: what are you idling at? You can up the idle as a bit of a temporary measure until you can get it properly looked at.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192586
Share on other sites

Mario,

If its the same problem mine had, it would cut out at sets of lights, turning into a carpark, or just .. stop when it felt like.

I thought it was after I had just run it hard, but after a few experiments it just did it when it felt like. I also noted that everytime I would go down Marshall Road towards the freeway (the set of lights that actually sits under the freeway) it would cut out.

I took it to my trusty old mechanic [plug] GAVIN WOODS [/plug] and said "Gav.. car broken, fix." He said "Ok"

Ended up being that the throttle body gets clogged.

And what would you know, he fixed it and it doesn't cut out anymore! He was right! As usual :P

Soo this maybe your problem. It may not be. Apparently they are rumoured to have this problem.

Might be an idea to ring Gav and get him to check it out!

***********************************************

Just a question (after reading the rest of the posts) Did you buy your car from Streetmachines per chance :D

Uhm, my odometer stops when it turns over to the next 10,000k's. This is a sign of wear in the odometer gears (usually meaning the car's odo has been wound back quite a bit). Gav fixed mine too. Although, cause its worn, it stops every 10,000k's and clicks over when it feels like it. It eventually moves....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192630
Share on other sites

ok theres another thought on the subject, ill keep that one in mind...

im going to do the different wiring setup on the fuel pump that i read in another thread to keep it operating at 100% instead of it dropping down when it hits 500-800rpm and see what result this achieves ... failing that ill tackle the same possible problem as you had ..

thanks for the info..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192635
Share on other sites

who is this gavin woods that fixed your odometer ??

i cant find any record of him in white pages at all , so either he's a very private small person or just not added..

id be very interested in having him look at my odometer and getting it working again, if he has done same for you previously..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192713
Share on other sites

mechanic #1 - electrical problem most likely and need to go to nissan so they can wack there diagnostic computer on it to see where the issue is... (not many mechanics have these since the units cost $80k - hence why nissan service department you must go)

ive had my car on one of these before however it wasnt at a nissan dealer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192763
Share on other sites

My car was stalling too, I have a ATMO Bov. I knew it wasn't just the Bov so I took it too Just Jap in Sydney...They have the computer to plug into the ECU...

The ECU said that the power steering sending wasn't working, replaced and all good.

if the sender is rooted it won't adjust the revs for the steering, thus when you on low revs, like when your turning into a car park...the engine will stall becuase of the load from the power steering...

just something else to check.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-192945
Share on other sites

Dstylez, I had a similar problem, can you tell me, when it happened were you slowing down, gunning it, or stopped? When it didn't have the problem, and you would come to a stop, would the revs severely dip down and then stabilise? What's your fuel economy like? If you can answer these for me then it might be similar to mine and if I can, i'll let you know what I did to fix mine.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11363-r33-cutting-out/#findComment-195797
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
×
×
  • Create New...