Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all im wondering where would the best place to locate a 4 channel amp in my R33?? im not going to be using a sub woofer just decent quality speakers all round. Also im after nice sounding set up with a good balance of treble and bass which would sound nice and clear from outside. not a fan of sub woofers. what speaker would you suggest I use for the front and rear. I was thinking those cool pioneer splits the yellow ones 6.5 inch for the front any good?? your advice would be great thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113677-r33-amp-location-set-up-advice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Those Pioneers are ok, the tweeters are a bit harse for my likings, but on the whole they are not too bad. The crossover may have an attenuation switch to turn down the tweets a bit if you go for the components.

Other than the Pioneers, I'd recommend Infinity, Focal, PBX, Soundstream, DLS...etc. There is a huge range of brands out there to chose from, but a good solid installation can make or break how the end result will sound. How much you wanna spend on them will also be a factor. Try to listen to a few and see what your ears like.

As for the amp, I'd suggest you mount it on the tray next to the battery under the parcel tray. That way you keep all of your boot and the amp is hidden from prying eyes. Also, If your battery is in your boot like most R33's, then you won't have the trouble of running much power wire.

Also, why are you after clear sound from the outside of the car? You planing on using it as a stereo for mates to listen to while hanging out? If you plan on listening to it for long lengths of time without the motor on, then I'd suggest you check your battery has a decent capacity to keep it powered.

Hope this helps.

yeh it does help alot. I just want a nice sounding system which is clear not distorted like heaps of systems ive heard on the street which sound terrible. Im going to check out this location now for the amp and make surei buy one which will fit nicely. ive been told infinity component speakers are awesome. I know a real good installer so should be good.

Edited by LatinR33

if you want great sound then a set of high quality splits and a high quality sub with a quality amp are a must.

send an email to FHRX on this forum. he will be extremely helpful.

alternatively talk to the good installer you know and ask him about well sorted subs. i would never be without one since i bought a YST-800 at home several years ago. cars are no different. there is so much more warmth to music when the crossovers and the gains are set in 'your' own personal' sweet spot.

the amp can be mounted under the floor next to the space saver if you are looking for another location.

i have the pionners in my capri and they are good you just need a good amp to drive them and have a good H/U with decent pre outs. i also would tell you to go into a car audio should and listen to all the splits they have and get them to run them off the amp you will by and the h/u if you can.

I have reloctaed my fuse box that is next to my battery to accomodate my sub amp, it's a fairly easy task, apart from having to take the back seat out :D

Yes, infinity are a favourite brand of mine, although there are a fair few better brands, I find infinity a good balance of bang for buck. At the moment I am runnig a full Infintity system. If you can afford the Perfect 5.1 or 6.1 components, they are the ones to have. Unfortunatley for me they do not do a nice 3-way components set, so I have settled for old Kappa 3-way setup. If your budget doesn't allow this then some of these infinity models should do a good job for you

60.5cs Kappa series. Older model, you may find cheap run out stock of these components.

60.7cs Kappa is the replacement for above model. These are 2ohm speakers, so essentially, you will get more power out of your amp to power them.

The models below these are Reference series, but if you can, stick to Kappa and better.

Again, if you can listen to a few different speakers in store, this will give you a general idea of how certain speakers sound. Unfortunatley, they will probably sound rather different once installed. This is generally because a car is a real shitty enviroment to try and produce nice accurate music from. Steering wheels in the way, resonating metal panels, sound wave reflection off interior materials etc etc.

Sound deadening will make a BIG improvement to your system also. There are top of the line brands out there like Dynamat Extreme, which although fairly expensive, it is renowned as one of the best brands out there. More bang for your buck would be something like 'Automotive Sound Deadening Panels'. Over here in NZ we have a brand called Bostik which makes these bitumen based (I think) panels. They are heated up so they become plyable, then a wax paper backing is pulled off and an adhesive surface is exposed for you to stick onto your door skins or other panel you choose to treat. For arond $100 for 10 x 500mmX500mm panels, this is a great investment. Installing on the inner and outer door skins will help you produce nice crisp/strong mid bass from your drivers.

Have a look at this website for more info and tutorials on sound deadening and other ways to improve your system - www.nzicemag.co.nz

Cool very informative. Im just going to go for the 4 speaker set up not sub. Keep the weight down as much as i can. I also been told the rears on a R33 are 6.5 inch's for a direct fit and the fronts are between a 6inch and a 6.5 inch this makes finding fronts hard. anyone have pics of their in cabin 4 speaker set ups?? would be great to see what other fellow skyliners have done.

nice set up.. but see where ther amp is right??? wats the metal thing underneath it?? cos my r33 doesnt have that???

i see thats coolz.. i want too design sumthing similar but with 2 levels for 2 amps and have it on a angle for abit of show lol

how much did the material cost u?? and wat material is it?

  • 1 month later...
I have reloctaed my fuse box that is next to my battery to accomodate my sub amp, it's a fairly easy task, apart from having to take the back seat out :D

Would you have any pics of where you relocated the fuse box to? I might have to do this too because I really want to place the amp I just got in that spot near the battery. There isn't enough space as it is.. need roughly 2 inches more.

An alternative I've been thinking about is possibly moving the entire tray that holds the battery and the fuse box over to the left a bit. That would give me enough room though I'm not sure how easy it would be. :D

After much thought, I think i'm just going to buy a shorter amp. Relocating battery tray means drilling new holes, and welding a nut on the other side for the thread...

Putting amps under the floor means making up a false floor...

All too difficult!

I'm with you there RANDY! ... although the problem I have is that I already bought my amp :P .. and I don't particularly want to change it now.

I think I'll have to go with a setup like d00dz has. It looks good and doesn't really take up any boot space. My only annoyance with it though is stuff in the boot that will keep on hitting the amp potentially scratching it, or worse, damaging the cables. I suppose one could just make a cover for it.

d00dz, I take it you just used a piece of carpeted mdf or similar for the panel that you've bolted the amp to? Where did you get the matching carpet from?

Just some boot carpet, from audio car shop lol. I asked them they had some. :P

Make partitions of MDF at the bottom so that the stuff in the boot wont move around.

My sub moves around in the boot havent had time and cbf'ed to make it secure. Yeh I used MDF panel, u can see the brackets I used.

damuscat: I have already made up a rear section like doodzez one, with brackets to have the little bit on the right hand side at a 30 degree angle or so.

The factory mounts for that battery cover are not strong enough, so you'd have to do all those mounts like doodz has done. Drill holes into your parcel-shelf, mount brackets, rivet them in place etc etc.

Even then, i'm looking for a stock look. I want to get to my spare tyre without ripping the whole lot out, and get to the battery with the same ease.

I have made a new floor out of masonite, the full size of the original carpet, then glued the original carpet on. So I don't want to make up a whole new floor.

I was going to mount my Sony 12" in the battery cover bit that I made, with the magnet-end poking into the empty space next to the battery. This would have looked wicked, but alas, there are no simple mounting options. =-[

So, i'm sticking with my good 6.5" speakers, and swap to a small 4x100w amp next to the battery, and then calling it quits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...