Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi tlai909,

I don't know anything about woolworths fuel, but the Caltex Vortex is only 95ron, not 98 like shell optimax and bp ultimate. Since all these cars expect to run 100ron stock, I'd be staying away from anything except the best.

i've used it, woolworthes premium that is ... haven't found it too bad ... my car likes 95 ron much more than 98 ron for some reason ... i get the same mileage as i would with bp premium ... i dont' see why people don't like woolworths ... if it has the same ron rating ... but i dont' use it that often ... only when i'm out and have to put some more in ... or when i can get 4cents of hahaha

Just because you are paying for a 'brand name' doesn't mean you are getting quality. :D

Safeway at least have the balls to guarantee that their fuel is ethanol free, so thats good enough for me.

Most of the people that run PULP in their cars are only doing it to try and look prestigious anyway! :P

There was a write up in one of the news papers about the Woolies petrol after a heap of people complained about it.

Apparently it's not refined as well as the other 'big brand names' are.

I wouldn't go as far as saying that it's crap, but there is no way I would use it on a car that was made to run on 100 RON fuel.

Friends use it on a regular basis, and found that they were having to get services more often due to clogged carbies and injectors !!!

I think the 4c off per litre you get isn't worth the extra servicing that you would have to get done !!

J

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Friends use it on a regular basis, and found that they were having to get services more often due to clogged carbies and injectors !!!

I assume you mean one or the other........ :P

most probably wollies premium has ethanol in it, why bother using it anyway its only 95 octane and untrustworthy..........and for those of you who use optimax...Shell says its UP TO 98 octane not 98 octane on the dot or over, unlike BP's stuff which BP says it to be at LEAST 98 octane.......just letting any of yous know who dont :P

Woolworths uses Caltex Fuel. Im sure they mix something else in with it coz it absolutely sucks (used it twice on my old '90 Pulsar and it choked like a pig).

My parents and sister insist on filling up with W'Worths fuel coz we have a server only like 20sec drive from where I live. I warn them everytime but then again they don't have a performance car so they don't notice any difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
    • Your profile doesn't say where you are, but you can get your current turbo rebuilt by any competent turbo shop, places like Precision Turbos or GCG They can replace the core with a modern ball bearing unit and should be able to source same or slightly larger wheels to fit in you housing. Note if you change the core you may need new oil and water lines too
×
×
  • Create New...