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...I have never been in the position in the car where I want to change the ratio of the plumb/atmo setting.

Hoon factor only I'd say, very Chapel Street on a Friday night...

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is your car tubo charged? If so did you install a BLV "fart valve" hahah. What brand is your BOV?

Yes my car is turbo'd lol....

Standard BOV - Just with an HKS Yellow Panel Filter with no airbox lid :D Works a treat

lol, mate, my "fart back" valve is nissan brand. Its the stock BOV i am refering to

i dont know much about turbo cars. its a big switch for me from an N/A ring. so all factory turbo fitted will have a factory "fart valve" then? :( . Ehich brand will be a good buy for a "fart valve"

i get a little of both. but i'm going to replace the stock bov as they leak under descent boost with an aftermarket plumb back. i was surprised how loud the induction noise is with the fatory airbox is. all i've got is a k&n panel filter (which shouldn't make a diff anyway).

lol, mate, my "fart back" valve is nissan brand. Its the stock BOV i am refering to

he he he if you look it's actually a mitsubushi :D

And after I turned of rice mode on the stealth, it is as quiet as a mouse, very very very quiet :P

Well imagine having that sound magnified to about 100 decibells, and that is what my stealth sounded like, but now, sweet silence, only a very small hint of whoosh :worship: scared me at first, I couldnt hear it working at all, but then after a bit I noticed it :D

  • 4 weeks later...

Bought a GFB stealth fx from LiAm on the forums, just finished installing it...in the dark...in the rain...without the propper tools...oh the pleasures of home mechanics!

Same as mine, if you want noise then two clicks from fully atmo is the furtherest I got without having stall issues, if you want no sound then it works just fine set to fully plumbback.

Well when I dissconnected the plub-back on my stock r33 bov, whenever the rpm dropped below ~2k it stalled.

When I set my stealth to anything more than about 80% atmo, I got the same issue re-appear. But I was told that if I wanted to keep it like that, all I needed was the lower rpm range remapped on the poer-fc, and that would fix the stall issue.

Instead I just set it to 100% plumb-back, works fine :angry: and no "wake the dead" PPPSSSHHHTTTT on gear change now :wub:

Hmm well apparently the car stalls. I havnt heard the BOV yet - but its stalling :D All I wanted was some noise! It has an adjustment thingo on the top, "soft" and "hard". What exactly will that change? Is the only way to stop it stalling by making it Plumb back?

I am guessing that the "Hard" and "Soft" settings are the spring setting, meaning that the harder you set the spring, the more pressure is required to make it vent.

There is a lot of stuff on SAu regarding this subject, and the only two ways of getting rid of the stall, to my knowledge, is get a dual plub-back/atmo, like the stealth which you can set to both atmo and plumb-back and set it to varying degrees, from 100% atmo, 0% plumb-back, through to 0% atmo, 100% plumb-back.

OR

Get either a plumb-back

OR

Get a atmo venting and get some sort of aftermarket ecu or piggyback ecu to tune the stall out.

:D

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