Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Havn't been in the import forum (or on SAU) for ages, feels good to be back.

Now that SEVS is the dominant compliance rule we use, I have come up with a question i can't find an answer for.

If I remember right, when you are going through an import broker, they arrange for the compliance shop to request the compliance plate. Then your car goes directly from the docks to compliance. Correct?

So what happens when you are importing your own SEVS car, direct from a supplier in Japan? Do you still have to have the car taken directly from the dock to compliance (is there some kind of rule?) or can you take the car home first? (Primarily to rip the aftermarket parts off yourself :( )

I Imagine this would make a big cost difference if possible....

Anyone?

Blacky

Once your car has cleared customs etc, you can pick it up from the docks.. wither get it towed or get a temp reg and drive it.

You are able to take it home, i think you have to get it complied/present it to your compliancer in 100 days from the date it arrives or something like that (maybe someone can clarify that).

I know with my compliancer..... my car arrived around chrismas so he was closing for a few weeks, if my car didnt arrive in time to get it to the shop i could take it home.

Awesome, that means that a reasonable saving can be made on modified SEVS cars - lets forget getting the workshop to remove a/m parts.

So that brings me to my next question - a compliance workshop has to apply for the SEVS import approval - is that correct? I last brought in a 92 Soarer and that was handled completely by the broker/compliancer. They apply for the approval stating that they'll be the ones complying it and then the approval is granted.Am i far off here?

Sorry if this is treaded ground but DOTARS doesn't get down to this level of detail.

Blacky

That's correct. That's why it's always good practice to get in touch with a RAWS before you purchase a car to make sure they have compliance plates available for you. Then once you've chosen a car, supply the RAWS with the VIN details and they will send off an application for import approval to DOTARS.

  • 2 weeks later...

I picked my car up from the docks recently, however it is in need of a check up and dyno tune. I was going to get the car running in good order before taking it to the compliance workshop.

Is there any official information to state that the car does NOT have to go directly to the RAWS workshop? Is there also information that states the car can be complianced a year after arrival date?

Thanks for any advice..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...