Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i sold my r31 last week

so i was down a fun car

so after a few vb's a cunning plan was unleashed to the world

im a 31 man and i must say s13 are really camp... so i had to do something about it buy injecting some r31 love into the s13

ill update this as it goes with helpfully tips for the little dooers out there

anyway the plan

stage one

1992 s13 sr20de auto silvia (check the miss's was away for a week so she didnt mind me floogging her car)

stage two

drop a running rb30e into the silvia and rip some burnouts

stage 3

drop a gtr head onto the old girl and some f**k off 350 hp high mount tiwns

time frame is about one month so heres hoping it all goes well

runing progresss 10/4/06

stage two

picked up a manual conversion for a s13

this one dropped in no dramas

quick rundown of the parts

r32 gts crossmember

r31 rb30e engine

rb20 sump

rb30 power steering pump

r32 gtr radiator

gtr clutch

two thermo fans

modified bonnet

basically the engine is in and running

this week we will plumb it up and add a surge tank for stage three

the engine does stick out of the bonnet a fair bit but this shouldnt be an issue when the gtr head is on

sorry only got a few picks

im hoping it rips a mean skid

fnaoit.JPG

fnaoit99.JPG

stage one is complete

well stage one is complete i must say the thing is an animal!!!!!!!!!

bp ultimate and heaps of timming = great burnouts

picks of the bonnet

looks photochoped hey but she is in there

2w09m5.JPG

2w09m587.JPG

almost a factory install if you ask me

thankyou super kyle (r31 mechanic in newcastle)

11fxr.JPG

this one shows how high it gets

11fxr31.JPG

this is why we need a bonnet scoupe

2w0a5i.JPG

thermos on the front cause there is only an inch to the radiator

2w09uq.JPG

sexual chocolate

2w09uq96.JPG

2w0a31.JPG

some wank in the interior (working out how the tach worked was going to be a killer

2w0a3185.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113833-crackpot-idea-number-52-by-fatz/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I like it... Find the biggest capacity nissan 6, then turbocharge it, then put it into the lighest chassis possible. :thumbsup: should be a lot of fun and tail happy.

Hope the weight balance is OK.

you are a champion for inventing such a car...

Wasnt some dude in NZ doing that same thing?

Either way, you are my hero, I love you. Please keep things updated. Might be handy when I sometime get the money and time to get one in the cef.

weight is fine

ill be taking it to the sau circuit day and thrashing it hard to get a feel for the handelling

just need to tee up some shocks

currently has kyb ones with stock springs (lol the suspension level raised with the new engine... work that shit out)

if you could ever get that car to hook up and go you would have a supra/bike killer on your hands...

awesome work, rb swaps into s chassis cars are loads of fun.

also check out www.lsauto.com for a drop in tach that reads the 6cyl signal or grab a r32 gauge cluster and with a touch of trimming the r32 tacho fits into the s13 cluster.

as for the front end being a touch higher after the swap you are spot on, you now have more weight behind the xmember than before so its gonna lift a bit, i noticed that too when i did my rb20 swap into my s14, works a treat and improves handling a bit.

Edited by carl h

what a piece of shit. doesnt look like a 31 at all. still a girls car you shirt lifter.

RB30e is a sweet motor though, definatley the best thing about the car (well the bonnet scoop is pretty good too). So refined and powerfull and it just looks so sexy sitting there. hopefully it will chirp the odd second too.

go bananaman.

:)

banaman has been nothing but trouble for you pete. he is a bad influence no doubt about it. ever since he rode into town in his 31 wagon things have gone downhill.

Fatz, you are my hero... keep up the good work, im hanging out to see some updates on power delivery/traction/handling when its all sorted, just be sure to go to a sperm bank and save some 'genetic material, cos I think your lovely girl will probably relieve you of your balls, and I want to clone you :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
    • @Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?
×
×
  • Create New...