Light Weight Flywheel Without Changing Clutch.

[Trust_R33]

hi everyone,

iv'e just removed my engine from the skyline.

i was thinking while the gearbox is out, i might aswell change the flywheel to something lighter.

i haven't physically checked the clutch & pressure plate, but the car drives perfectly.

my question is...

If i change the flywheel only, will i run into any problems?

Is changing the flywheel something u would only do if the clutch needed changing?

any help will be appreciated

vince

Also i started trying to use the search tool, but iv'e spent 2 hours reading through posts with no luck.

[Trust_R33]

Can anyone clarify my question?

it's not something everyone would know, surely someone can tell me though...

thanks

Vince

[insu]

Hey mate, I don't think you should really run into any major problems if you change the flywheel and not the clutch. Just so long as there is plenty of meat on the clutch as i'm sure there will be some bedding in process to occur, probably for the first coupla hundred kays while the face of the flywheel is well, bedding in with the clutch.

By the very nature of this process there will be some irregularities that would have built up over time on the old flywheel that were matched on clutch. Moving to a new faced flywheel should do the same thing to a point, essentially wearing down the 'high points'.

Out of curiosity what kind of clutch is it (organi etc?), and how long have you had it in?

It might save a whole lot of stress now to get a new clutch in while the engine's out. While you're at it, if it hasn't been done, change the rear main, spignot bearing etc.

Another option if you are concerned about the clutches life span and you want to go to a lightweight flywheel is a twin or triple plate clutch. Essentially the flywheel is built into these kits (and is lightweight), and it is reflected in the price. The upside is better driveability, more power handling than stock. The downsides are more chattering in neutral and the higher initial outlay. Although when you combine the cost of a new heavy duty clutch kit and a lightweight flywheel, the price difference isn't all that much!

Probably the best person to talk to on here who should really be able to help you out is 3lit3 32. He works at ABS and does some very good deals for SAU people in Brisbane. He's very helpful when it comes to all things driveline.

Hope rant helps.

-Insu

[blind_elk]

You should be aware from the current exercise of the time and effort involved in accessing the clutch. That equates to $$$$.

I would suggest that while it's all apart, take the opportunity to replace (upgrade?) the clutch. It might cost a couple 100 now, but it will cost a lot more when you really need to replace the clutch.

[Trust_R33]

well the clutch in it now is upgraded.

it's about 20,000km's old. it's 1100kg single plate clutch from adelaide clutch.

ill pull it all apart and take a picture for you to see.

[BHDave]

If you already have the uprated pressure plate i'd really consider either a re-puk of the friction plate if it's a puk type clutch obviously or a replacement full face plate.

It's easy to do while it's all apart