Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I took my car for a major service (which ended up costing close to $1800) about 3 weeks ago and the guys there told me that I need to replace my shocks since they're all worn out. Anyway, just wondering if any of you guys had yours replaced and how much it cost for parts and labour and what brand?

I need all four replaced and I'm on a budget...not a winning combination :(

Thanks all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113976-r33-shock-replacement/
Share on other sites

I sourced them for

$99 each for rears

$122 each for fronts

They were KYBs. Fitted myself so no labour. I bought some universal steering rack boots to replac the dust boots which were about $50 for 4.

Have to get a wheel alignment soon too.

If you want better Sydneykid does biltsteins in the group buy.

Rears you have to remove the trim, fronts are ok.

Budget on about 4.5 hours labour - Probably $400.

I'd say $900 all up.

if your after an upgrade check out the website in my signiture, but if your after stock struts i would say $500 maximum for fantastic condition?

Hi Ryan, it would help your cause greatly if you fixed up the "Janglish" on your web site. It's very confusing and doesn't help the buyer at all.

"Precise control damp valve"

Does that means it's raining?

Only has one valve?

I also notice the same spring rates are quoted for GTR's (4wd) and GTST's (2wd), surely there are different springs rates to allow for the substantial weight differences. Best to put them up on the web site rather than confuse the potential buyers.

:spank: cheers :P

Thanks guys, thats been great info, cause i bought my car in september but don't get to drive too often since I'm working in the city so just started doing stuff to it.

Anyway, Sydneykid, how do I go about getting a group deal for the shocks? I'd be pretty interested in the Bilsteins deal if you could hook something up if they're around the $900 mark fitted. I'm in sydney too hopefully i can get something sorted out. Just need to confirm price, shocks etc.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...