Jump to content
SAU Community

How do i join the Skyline Club?


Recommended Posts

Hi how do i join the skyline club? Do i have to fill out forms or something? pay a fee?

do u have a mailing list etc?

i would love to go to one of the BBQs and check out some of your cars...

i wont be able to get mine for 4 more months if i want to get one like the one i saw on saturday (MERLI's)

Merli if u read this i took some photos of your car, i cant stop looking at them i wish i wish i wish i could afford it :P if u would like to c them msg me and ill put them on a site and give u the link.

BY BY you are in some of these shots too... if u want to c them just private msg me :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go back out to the main forum index, and scroll down to the New South Wales section.

Go in there and have a read of the 'joining the club' threads. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I have said before... you need to fill out the membership form. I have a copy of this form in pdf and hard copy. if you would like a copy of the form in pdf format the just drop an email to [email protected] and I'll email it to you. The cost is $50 for the first year and $30 after that.

Hope this helps,

Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...