Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What category of racing and where?

I'll come and watch.

Hope the poofteenth of a kW power you gain from removing the cat makes a difference.

spoken like someone who has never run a cat-out pipe, they make a noticeable difference to mid range and throttle response.

D1 Garage in SA can get them for you as well www.d1garage.com

Another option is get an exhaust shop to weld a pipe through an old cat, a mate got it done in SA for $40 - bashing the guts out doesnt tend to have the same results from what I have been told (by tilbrook auto and dyno in SA).

gazza, cats are pretty much a standard size on nissan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114222-de-cat-pipe/#findComment-2105522
Share on other sites

spoken like someone who has never run a cat-out pipe, they make a noticeable difference to mid range and throttle response.

D1 Garage in SA can get them for you as well www.d1garage.com

Another option is get an exhaust shop to weld a pipe through an old cat, a mate got it done in SA for $40 - bashing the guts out doesnt tend to have the same results from what I have been told (by tilbrook auto and dyno in SA).

gazza, cats are pretty much a standard size on nissan.

oh well i got a cat pipe here if anyone wants it i feel safer keeping me hi flowcat on in case iget picked up lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114222-de-cat-pipe/#findComment-2105551
Share on other sites

bashing the guts out doesnt tend to have the same results from what I have been told (by tilbrook auto and dyno in SA).

Yep! It's basic physics I guess eh :) When exhaust gases are allowed to expand a few inches either way (in a bashed out cat) they slow down, then must also rapidly speed up to exit the cat again. Not very efficient, and definitely not as efficient as a straight pipe that maintains the diameter which keeps the gases flowing the same speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114222-de-cat-pipe/#findComment-2105608
Share on other sites

Pipes mine !!! hehe, Thanks gazza750, lol R34 It is actually going on an track spec r32 to replace a collapsed compliance cat so chill, also just for amusement, take a look at nz they dont have to run cats by law, they have done tests, a car in decent condition with a decent tune can still pass an emissions test, And, after around 60thousand kays, Cats are saturated and filter out nothing if not they add to the emissions, so there,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114222-de-cat-pipe/#findComment-2105940
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...