Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Factory Immobiliser – Any Good?

Haxorz

By Haxorz,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just got myself a nice R34 and I want to secure it.

I’ve got my mind made up on a good alarm and immobiliser.

I’ve just been speaking with a respected security expert who tells me the security on the S15 amazing. He said it features NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) which is almost bulletproof. He said it’s like smartlock on the Fords. Adding anything extra to these systems is simply a waste in his view.

He doesn’t however know what the security is like on the R34’s.

Does anyone know what it’s like? Does the R34’s feature NATS? If so, I don’t want to waste a good $750 on adding another system (or worse, stuff up the existing security system).

Has anyone had a R34 stolen with factory security (not a mate of a mates sisters dog, a real example)?

My just car insurance premium came in damn low. This indicated to me not many are stolen…

Edited by McCracken
raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

If you're required to have an Australian-standards approved immobiliser in your car for insurance, you'll need to install something as the factory system is not certified.

NATS is a 'fairly' effective system but I wouldn't rely on it as the one and only security system in my car. I dunno if it's on the R34s but it's not too difficult to work around it.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

The S15 came with NATS v2 where as the S14 came with NATS. NATS 2 would ID the driver key via RF before it allowed the ECU to start the car. The original NATS was not like that at all.

I'm not sure if the R34 came with NATS 2 but I wouldnt be suprised if it did. Its still not a proper alarm with a shock sensor though. With either NATS you could bust a window, jump on the car or whatever and it wouldnt set off the alarm. Only if a door/boot/hood was opened, then it would go off.

Thats my concern with factory immobilisers so it cant help to get microwave/shock sensing type alarms.

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
Posted

I am very happy with the Brant Nemesis that features a 6 point system. Includes tilt sensor stopping wheel thieves and also internal movement sensors for broken windows and the like. Only down side is it's not a cheap $$ system. Around $1100 about 15 months ago. This also inlcuded auto windows up on arming.

But I think my car is worth the extra $$

My 2cents

Cheers

The S15 came with NATS v2 where as the S14 came with NATS. NATS 2 would ID the driver key via RF before it allowed the ECU to start the car. The original NATS was not like that at all.

I'm not sure if the R34 came with NATS 2 but I wouldnt be suprised if it did. Its still not a proper alarm with a shock sensor though. With either NATS you could bust a window, jump on the car or whatever and it wouldnt set off the alarm. Only if a door/boot/hood was opened, then it would go off.

Thats my concern with factory immobilisers so it cant help to get microwave/shock sensing type alarms.

Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The S15 came with NATS v2 where as the S14 came with NATS. NATS 2 would ID the driver key via RF before it allowed the ECU to start the car. The original NATS was not like that at all.

I'm not sure if the R34 came with NATS 2 but I wouldnt be suprised if it did. Its still not a proper alarm with a shock sensor though. With either NATS you could bust a window, jump on the car or whatever and it wouldnt set off the alarm. Only if a door/boot/hood was opened, then it would go off.

Thats my concern with factory immobilisers so it cant help to get microwave/shock sensing type alarms.

So NATS includes an alarm? I certainly can’t see a speaker. How would I set it off if it did?

Is there anything I can check to see if it has NATS?

My R34 key is pretty chunky (as if it had a chip or whatever). I only have one as well and if I lose this I think I’ll be stuffed!

I wonder if I should get a key cut and try to start the car with this key. That should prove that the key has something in it.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

The NATS system uses the stock horns as the siren. To set it off, sit in the car and lock the doors and wait for at least 30 seconds and then its armed. (Do you have a "Security" LED light that flashes?) After this, just unlock the car with ur finger and open the door. It should go off.

The S14 NATS v1 keys were slim and definitely weren't chipped. I think you might be right that your key may be chipped. Get one cut and it'll be interseting to find out. NB: Dont have the original key anywhere near the car though!

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

all of the 34's I have worked on had smartentry (as do s2 33's ) but not an immobilser system (or transponder setup as in the s14,14a,15) 14a had a full alarm that worked on entry only (that said I could add -and did- a shock sensor to the system )

would be interested to see the follows photos pls.

key barrel straight on

key head -

top shot showing head

blade to key head

that will tell me for certain what you have

what model is your car? (34 obviously.) ECR34 or something else.

give me that info and I'll tell you what and if you have it. pretty certian you do not.

Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No worries, will take photos tomorrow and post.

In the meantime - does anyone think it worth going a microwave sensor over a shock sensor? Would having a shock sensor only mean that I'd come back to a car with a stuffed lock and dented door? Or would they they test for a shock sensor first before proceeding?

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

nope std 34 keyless entry. no chip.

in regard to the microwave vs shock - shock. microwave will be played with to no avail. shock will warn off first then sound.

to do it properly- shock,glass break,tilt. car will not move without something setting it off. to be paranoid - GSM paging/quiktrak.

Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, out of all the adds on on this page: http://www.mongoose.com.au/accessories/?category_id=14

You'd go:

Glass Break

Shock

Tilt

I'm also thinking of a pair of these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5255

116dB Screamers from Jaycar

From what it sounds in practical use that microwave and ultrasonic will cause too many false alarms.

What does everyone else think? I'm thinking the FM transmitter is a bit of a waste of $ as well?

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
So, out of all the adds on on this page: http://www.mongoose.com.au/accessories/?category_id=14

You'd go:

Glass Break

Shock

Tilt

I'm also thinking of a pair of these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5255

116dB Screamers from Jaycar

From what it sounds in practical use that microwave and ultrasonic will cause too many false alarms.

What does everyone else think? I'm thinking the FM transmitter is a bit of a waste of $ as well?

yep. the screamers I would do 3 myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
×
×
  • Create New...