Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was thinking of waiting for the 15 year old rule to kick in for the R32GTR's. Sounds great but image how much these things are going to go up at the auctions as demand hot's up.

Some people have said they MAY end up costing as much as a 93 R32 model...

Guess I just wait and see.

Does anyone know if there are any differences between R32 model GTR's across the range? For example, how does an early model 89 compare to a late model 93? Any variations in engine, chassis, ATTESA, interior & other parts etc? I know the late model 94 V-Specs 1-2 have different components to the standard ones like wheels and the revised drivetrain, just wondering whether the GTR went through any mid-production facelifts on the standard model. Any help would be great coz i'm considering importing one , cheers.

  • 2 months later...

i was thinking of going the same route, but im scared by the fact that im laying out around 20 grand for a car that i havent even seen, smelt, driven or inspected.

That puts me off from buying one. Its a risk, and most cars that are 15 years old in japan can be quite shitty, with rust and other things. Might be better just to buy one locally and pay the price for it (~25k for a local one )

Sure you can save 10k, but how much is it going to cost you and what if you bought a lemon. Also, storage in japan will be outside, not inside. Space is limited in japan, and the paint might be well and truly stuffed by then.

Ide love a GTR, it would compliment what i want to do with such a car (drift and track day race) but the risks are pretty severe if you get a lemon. 20k is a lot of money if you dont belive in loans and work your ass off for the cash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...