Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard Afm --> Turbo Intake Pipe

Cake

By Cake,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cake Mentor

Cake

Posted
Posted

Couldn't find any information on this when searching...

I have heard that on an RB25DET, the rubber flexible pipe from the AFM to the turbo often sucks closed at high boost? What are its limits in either power or boost levels, before it needs to be upgraded?

cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114323-standard-afm-turbo-intake-pipe/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

On the R34GTT we started to run into problems around 245 rwkw. Boost was irrelevant, it's all about the airflow through the tube. How much resistance to airflow (boost) there is after the turbo has no effect whatsoever.

:( Cheersw :(

Ceffy_SA Collaborator

Ceffy_SA

Posted
Posted

Would someone be able to tell me what the consequences of the rubber induction hose "sucking" closed e.g. boost drop/power drop?

Also i have been told that there should a metal winding through the induction hose too, my RB20 dosent have one so it is VERY easy to squeeze and collapse the pipe. Would it be worthwhile finding a RB20 one that has that bit in there, or just going a full metal induction pipe?

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I don't believe they have any metal ribbing in them.. not the early rb20 ones anyhow.

You could always make some ribbing by winding some heavy wire around a cylinder of the same diameter as the tube. Then insert. Cheap non-bling option..

Ceffy_SA Collaborator

Ceffy_SA

Posted
Posted
You could always make some ribbing by winding some heavy wire around a cylinder of the same diameter as the tube. Then insert. Cheap non-bling option..

haha yea thats true, i also woudnt get the uber cool extra loud turbo flutter without a metal induction pipe.

I think i will try finding some wire to put in there as a fix. I have also heard about people making up some bent steel piping and putting it inside the std rubber pipe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Diy - How To Repair R33 Air Mix/blend Actuator

      By PranK · Posted

      I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.
    • JV7
      Diy - How To Repair R33 Air Mix/blend Actuator

      By JV7 · Posted

      Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Noice. Mostly.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
×
×
  • Create New...