Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oil world sold me redline gearbox for $100, but that was almost a year ago.

It's funny, you put it in, and don't really notice much difference, it takes about a week to really start working, it must take a while to get into all the gears and what not. or maybe i'm just imagining it!

redline gearbox oil is pretty high on my list of "good mods"

I have had a leaking gearbox reverse switch (i think) for a while now, i really should fix that, it's like liquid gold! $5 a drop

I have used the "blue Smurf" in 2 RB20/30 gearboxes now, boht after developing synchro issues.

The first one spat the mail bearings after 15K Km of use with the red line stuff, but i blame that almost enitrley on a failed spiggot bush.

The second gearbox has only just had it put in, and had immediate improvement.

My 3rd gearbox, which is in another car has Castrol MTX gear oil in it. It is 1/4 of the price and has worked just as well as the blue smurf. It is listed as a motorbike oil, and is quite thin however i was told it was still suitable for this application. My only concern is that the bearings may not love it, but it hasnt been in there long enough to tell. Just another option if your looking for a quick cheap fix.

Brent.

  • 1 month later...
So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

you mean a second hand box, thats new to your car?

i'd say it'd be fine...unless its just been rebuilt....

So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :(

i am currantly running superlight shockproof and find it quite good once its warmed up say a few minutes,very silky shifts,, so yeah i feelit is good:-)

You can actually rate Redline lightweight shockproof as 75w140 but it is build very differently. One of the must have if you are generating big power.

Clink link below for more technical details:

RL lightweight shockproof

Edited by Trex101
The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :mad:

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

I was under the impression that the consensus seemed to be don't go Redline if your box is new/rebuilt but go for it if the Synchro's are a bit older or a little tired =) I'm still yet to have any problems with it and the box is still noticeably smoother than it was and also eliminated grabbing under WOT through 2nd -> 3rd and 3rd -> 4th. I still need a new clutch and I'm hoping that will be the end of any grabbing through changes all together (as it will still do it occassionally through 4th -> 5th at high RPM.

Cheers

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

Dont use the shockproof. Its got additives in it to make it a thinner more slipperly oil. Normal non shockproof oil should be ok. Id probably go the castrol or motul stuff tho if your gearbox is in good nick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...