Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm planning on using Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff when I get the time to do it.

My gearbox was rebuilt 3 years ago because of a 4th gear sincro problem would grind at anything over 4000rpm. Im having problems again but only if shifting quickly at redline. What oil should I use?

You ask like I'm an expert! :P

I have good advice that shockproof will solve your grinding problems, but there's more realisation these days that while it works great in the short term you may be shortening your box's life by using it.

Not sure if any additives like the nulon G70? will help shift quality. Otherwise just go for shockproof and when the box blows up get a new one :D

it's been a week now since i put in redline lightweight shockproof. It shows only slight improvement on my crunching problem from 1st to 2nd. i am wondering how long does it takes to show the full result. Does anyone knows?

Does R33 gearbox crunch from 1st to 2nd on a cold start normal?

Giveitall ... thats impossible to answer ... its not like an antibiotic! or Rehab... It deppends on the actual damage caused in the first place as to whether any improvment will be made....

I use it in mine and it only made small differences to my driving shifting! ITS just that i know its good protection for my fresh box ! Not a tolerence corrector

Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :P

Edited by simpletool
  • 1 year later...

Well im scratching my head now thinking what gearbox oil I should use. GTS4 r32 gearbox. Has some noise coming from it when driving, but I was told when I bought the car, that it had an aftermarket gearset in it as well. So not quite sure whether to use redline or not. Main issue is it crunches on a quick change from 4th to 5th.

  • 3 months later...
Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :)

My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

  • 3 weeks later...
My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

By the way, I changed my gear box oil to Redline MT90 two days ago, now the crunching problem seems to be gone :blink: ( Iwas using Penzoil or Penrite with Nulon N70 addictive) Cheers

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

Thats good to hear, only thing that stoped me using Redline ightweight shockproof is most ppl who has used it have 50/50 opinion. maybe ill use it when my gear box is very bad i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...